Sports A Field

How to bring your hunting rifle into South Africa

Bringing a rifle into South Africa for your safari hunt doesn’t have to be difficult.

Bringing hunting firearms into South Africa is relatively easy, but you do need to be prepared before you arrive or you face a long wait.

Make absolutely sure you have the following documents in hand when you arrive (and copies of each just in case): Passport; return tickets to your country of origin (or copy of your itinerary); a letter of invitation from the outfitter with the outfitter’s permit number on it; a stamped and endorsed Proof of Ownership for your firearms (for U.S. citizens, that’s a U.S. Customs form 4457; for all other citizens, bring a firearms certificate or hunting license with your guns listed); and the SAP 520 form completed in black ink in block letters. (You can download this form at www.saps.gov.za.) The hunter must NOT sign this document at home but rather must do so in the presence of a police officer at the airport in South Africa. This form can be downloaded from the Professional Hunters of South Africa Web site, or your outfitter can arrange to have the form sent to you before you leave.

Many hunters are now reporting that if you have a U.S. Customs form 4457, it must be current and have been filled out and stamped by Customs in the last 6 months.

According to South African customs, the most common mistakes made by international hunters are a) not having the SAP 520 form filled out in BLACK ink; b) not having a letter of invitation from the outfitter with the permit number on it; and c) signing the SAP 520 form before arriving at RSA customs.

Learn more at the website of the Professional Hunters Association of South Africa: www.phasa.co.za.

Leave a Comment

Four Tips from Tanzania

When I returned from a seven-day buffalo safari in Tanzania last September, friends who were planning their own safari asked what I’d learned on the trip. Here are a few of the tips I shared with them.

  • Tsetse flies are tough to deter, but Avon Skin-So-Soft works pretty well. I found some at my local REI store. The flies seem to be particularly annoying when you’re riding in a vehicle, and they are especially attracted to dark-colored clothing.
  • There’s not much you can do about the misery of a sixteen-hour flight (especially if you’re flying in coach) except sleep. Bring a sleep mask, earplugs, and your favorite over-the-counter or prescription sleep med. Drink lots of water–more than you want. That will keep you hydrated and also force you to get up occasionally.
  • Consider arriving in the country a couple of days before your safari begins. This allows you to sightsee and recover from jet lag, and builds in a safety valve of time if any of your flights are delayed or you miss a connection. You can take day trips to Ngorongoro Crater from Arusha, for example. Your travel agent, booking agent, or outfitter will help you set something up.
  • Practice, practice, practice with your safari rifle, especially if it’s a heavier caliber than you are used to shooting. My practice regimen consisted of shooting twelve to fifteen shots at a session from sitting and kneeling positions and from shooting sticks. I did this once a week for three months, and the practice paid off handsomely when I was able to place good shots on two nice buffalo.

Leave a Comment

Heading for Africa

Preparing for a safari is almost as much fun as the trip itself.

The anticipation has been building for months, and at last the day is almost here. I’m getting ready to leave for a safari in Namibia, via a flight to Washington, DC, where I’ll connect with South African Airways to Johannesburg, and then on to Windhoek. My duffel is stuffed with safari clothes and soft-soled leather boots and lots of additional stuff I probably won’t really need; my rifle is sighted in and ready to be locked in its case; three boxes of ammo are locked in a hard-sided pistol case inside the duffel; and my carry-on contains my passport and a sheaf of other paperwork as well as cameras, reading material, and a variety of sleep aids for that 16-hour ordeal in coach.

They’re big planes, but they seem awfully tiny when you’ve been wedged in a coach seat for hours and hours.

There’s a lot to think about when you’re getting ready for a hunt in Africa, but the preparation is almost as much fun as the trip! Robert Ruark said it best in The Old Man and the Boy: “The best part of hunting and fishing was the thinking about going and the talking about it after you got back.” OK, maybe it’s not the best part, but the anticipation and the remembering are always an integral part of the experience.

I’ll be hunting in northwestern Namibia with Omujeve Safaris in their Omatendeka Concession, which, by all accounts, is huge, wild, uninhabited, and unfenced. And crawling, so they say, with outsized examples of Namibia’s beautiful plains game—kudu, gemsbok, mountain zebra, springbok, and common eland.

The eland is my main goal. I want to hunt one of these huge spiral-horned antelope in the classic manner, by getting on a track in the morning and following it until we catch up or get busted by the wind. Eland will walk for miles and miles in a day, so they say, so it can be a real challenge. That said, though, I’ve been to Africa several times before, and I know that sometimes what the hunt gives you is not what you expect, so I’ve learned to be flexible and enjoy whatever happens.

One of the great things about Africa is you don’t need much in the way of fancy clothing. Two or three safari shirts, dark green or dark khaki, and the equivalent in lightweight pants will do it for your basic gear. I also have a cool safari vest I got from Boyt Harness company. Lightweight boots with very quiet soles for stalking (I got mine from Russell Moccasin), a windproof fleece jacket for those cold rides in the Land Cruiser in the mornings and evenings, and a hat with a brim, round out the essentials. I’m taking a light, bright 10×32 Zeiss FL binocular, and of course a good camera.

The most important consideration, of course, is the rifle and ammo. For this trip, I’m taking a Ruger M77 in .300 Win Mag, topped with a Trijicon 3-9×42 scope. It will be loaded with Hornady’s Superformance ammo with 180-grain Interbond bullets. I have full confidence in this rig to do the job on any large plains game animal that crosses our path, as long as I’m able to put the bullet in the right place.

Shooting practice is one of the most important, and according to many PHs I’ve talked to, one of the most overlooked aspects of safari preparation. It’s not enough to just sight-in your rifle on the bench; it’s also crucial to practice shooting from a variety of positions, including sitting, offhand, and resting on shooting sticks. I’ve been to the range several times in the past couple of months, but I’ve also supplemented that with a regimen of daily dry-firing, which has helped me to gain even more familiarity with the rifle.

This will be my second trip to Namibia. My husband, Scott, and I chose Namibia for our very first safari in 2003 and had a wonderful time. It’s one of the safest countries in Africa (if not the safest), and has great infrastructure, excellent game management, and wonderfully friendly people. You don’t need any special shots or medications in most areas (although I always take malaria preventative whenever I go to Africa, just as a precaution.)

Sunsets in Namibia are beautiful, especially when you’re watching one after a successful day of hunting.

The only bad part about going to Africa is the long flight, but all you can do is prepare as well as possible with lots of reading material and whatever helps you sleep. My travel agent, Annelise Dubose, specializes in Africa, and she has been a tremendous help in finding me the best flights and helping me figure out the connections, get the gun permits, and plan a little sightseeing after my hunt. Between Annelise and my friends at Omujeve Safaris, I know I couldn’t be in better hands. Now all I need to do is concentrate on shooting straight and enjoying the experience. It doesn’t get any better than that!

Leave a Comment

Preparing for an International Hunt

A successful hunt begins well before you take that first step out of a vehicle, lodge, tent, or your back door. It pays to plan ahead, and this goes double when you are heading out of the country.

Keith Atcheson with a Botswana elephant.

Staying well organized and knowing what to expect requires guidance by an experienced booking agent or professional hunter,” says Keith Atcheson, who is a representative with booking agency Jack Atcheson & Sons, based in Butte, Montana. Your PH or outfitter will provide you with the basics, but when it comes to making sure you have remembered everything and know what to expect, Atcheson says, “A good agent here in the States is usually more practical and effective.”

“Hunters should begin by having a chronological checklist of items that need to be taken care of in a timely matter. For example, some species require CITES permits for importation, and those permits need to be obtained at least two to three months prior to departing for the hunt.”

Hunters should also think about, and plan for, their personal safety.

“Rent a satellite phone!” urges Atcheson. “Buy accident, sickness, and evacuation insurance without fail. To not do so is completely foolish. We had it when my wife was gored and nearly killed by a Cape buffalo in 2004, so believe me, this is really important, and it’s cheap. Deposit cancellation insurance is also a great idea, but it does make the insurance package more expensive.” These policies will need to be purchased, and the forms completed, well before your departure date.

So what’s the best strategy to head off airline problems and other unplanned travel disasters?

“Consider spending an extra night along the route to your destination to make sure your baggage can catch up to you if it’s lost,” Atcheson suggests. “The benefits of the extra rest are also obvious when dealing with jet lag.”

He also strongly suggests carrying your optics, medications, and one change of clothing, plus hunting boots, if possible, in your carry-on bag in case your checked luggage is hopelessly lost. You will at least be prepared to hunt with some comfort.

So what’s the one thing that’s always useful when traveling to hunt?
“Knowing that you have done everything possible to be organized from beginning to end,” Atcheson says. “Peace of mind is priceless.”–Michael D. Faw

Leave a Comment

Super-Safe Travel with Firearms

Tips and tricks to ensure your hunting guns arrive when you do.

To my knowledge, firearms have not been used in the hijacking of an airliner in decades Sportsmen’s firearms checked as legal baggage have not been involved in any airline hijackings since—well, ever.

Nevertheless, traveling hunters face ever more strict regulations for flying with the tools of their trade. The rules continue to vary from airline to airline, country to country, check-in agent to check-in agent. As suggested before in this column, one is best prepared to fly firearms by getting complete, written rules and regulations that apply to one’s destination country/airline. One’s outfitter ought to provide this. For in-country flights, one should scour his/her airline’s website for its latest baggage rules/restrictions. Print out those rules in case you need backup at the check-in counter.

For further backup, carry a printout of the latest TSA Web site regulations for shipping firearms and ammunition. Remember, TSA rules can be superseded by individual airline rules. For example, TSA permits the inclusion of ammunition in the same hard case as the firearm. Most airlines do not. You must abide by the airline’s rules. American Airlines, for instance, will not permit checked firearms on any flight going to or through the United Kingdom.

Interestingly, while TSA asks that regular checked baggage not be locked or be locked only with “universal master locks” that TSA can open, federal law mandates that firearms cases be not only locked, but locked with a device that TSA employees CANNOT open (non-TSA compatible master locks.) The idea is that once your firearms case has been checked by TSA, locked and place into the luggage system, no one should be able to access it. Great idea. To accomplish this, travelers are usually asked to carry their tagged firearm case to a TSA agent, lock it after the inspection, and retain the key. The traveler has the key (or combination,) not the TSA agent. In some airports, one is asked to lock the case at the check-in counter and wait while the case rides the luggage belt to a TSA inspection site where it is presumably X-rayed, sniffed, and chemically tested. Should a hand-check be warranted, TSA calls the airline desk, directing you to the appropriate TSA agent to deliver the key. Sometimes the agent takes the key to the TSA folks, sometimes those folks come get the key. But in all cases, the key must be returned to you.

The beauty of this system is that, once the case is declared safe, no one can easily tamper with it. No contraband can be inserted and your firearms cannot be removed. Federal law prohibits the placement of any markers or tags externally identifying the case as containing firearms, but most thieves can, of course, figure out what a firearm case looks like. Camouflaging options include using golf club cases (TuffPak) and any sort of hard-sided, lockable case such as a battered old, oversized Samsonite large enough to accommodate a dismantled gun. Pack foam or clothing around the parts.

Since a rash of thefts (mostly from O’Hare in Chicago around 2003), firearms have been sailing through pretty safely in obvious gun cases. Apparently few airport workers have the opportunity to slip away with firearms (the bigger and more obvious the case and firearm, the more difficult it is to hide and sneak out of an airport) and/or they fear repercussions from getting caught. Today’s job shortage should inspire most workers to value a steady paycheck over the bonus of a few fenced guns.

The combination of this locked security and the physical protection a hard gun case provides has inspired many to begin inserting other valuables in gun cases. Those without room in their carry-on for binocular, rangefinder, extra camera lenses, and even treasured books, expensive shoes and handbags believe such items are more secure in a locked gun case than unlocked, regular luggage.

More than a few experienced flyers believe that solidly locked firearms cases decrease the chances of “lost luggage” because airline workers don’t want to be responsible for an unaccounted-for firearm loose in the system. When they see those big, locked cases, they expedite their progress on down the line.

Generally, increased security means that checked firearms are less likely to be stolen or lost in today’s commercial flight world. Still, nothing is certain. If you insist on traveling with a particularly expensive firearm, consider buying additional insurance to protect it against any and all travel loss.

Leave a Comment

You can do this! How to afford your dream hunt

It just takes some planning.

You’ve been dreaming about doing a big hunt–a trip to Alaska, your first African safari–but pesky necessities like mortgage payments and utility bills keep getting in the way. Despite the rising cost of guided hunts today, determined hunters of modest means need not despair of participating in a far-flung adventure. Here are a few ways to start working toward that dream hunt:

  • Plan and prioritize. Just like anything else worth doing, affording a great hunt requires coming up with a plan to set the money aside and deciding that doing the trip is going to be a priority. Especially when it comes to physical hunts such as those for sheep and mountain goats, you’ll have a better experience if you prioritize saving for the trip in your younger years, rather than “waiting until you can afford it.”
  • Set up an automatic savings account that will set a designated amount aside each month to earn interest in your “hunting account.”
  • Cut out small expenses, such as that daily trip to Starbucks, and make sure that money goes into your hunting account.
  • Sell some of your old hunting gear or guns to help pay for your trip. E-Bay, Craig’s List, and other online emporiums make it easy.
  • Accumulate frequent-flyer miles with a miles credit card. Don’t run up your credit card just to get miles, of course, but if you use a credit card anyway you might as well be racking up airline miles. By the time you’re ready to book your trip, you might even have enough miles for a free ticket.
  • Apply for tags. Some premium elk and deer areas (and even sheep hunts) in Western states are open to do-it-yourself or semi-guided hunters, but it may take years to draw a tag. In states that offer preference points, it pays to start early and apply every year. In the meantime, gain valuable hunting experience and learn the country by purchasing over-the-counter cow and doe tags for public land where they are available.
  • Get on e-mail lists and mailing lists of outfitters and booking agents who offer “cancellation hunts.” You’ll have to be flexible enough to take such hunts on short notice, but the prices can be attractive.

Leave a Comment

Book ‘Em!

What you should know about hunt booking agents

If you want to hunt in an unfamiliar destination but aren’t sure where to begin or how to choose a reputable outfitter, start by contacting a hunt booking agent. The best way to ensure you’re working with a trustworthy one is to make sure he or she is a full-time agent with at least five years of experience and is a member of the American Association of International Professional Hunting and Fishing Consultants. Advice from a booking agent is free–it doesn’t cost you, the hunter, a thing, since booking agents are paid through commissions from the outfitters they represent. That means you have nothing to lose by making a call.

A good booking agent should be able to recommend hunts, countries, area, dates, and outfitters that fit your particular needs and desires. Even if you’ve always wanted to go to Africa but think such a trip might be financially out of reach, it’s worth contacting a reputable booking agent and being frank about your budget and time constraints. They’ll be honest with you if your expectations are unrealistic, and you might be surprised by what is available.

Leave a Comment

Guiding Lights

How do you know if the guide who takes you on your dream hunt is any good?

Have you ever been on an outfitted hunt where you suspected your guide had been the cook or maybe the wrangler the day before you showed up? Well, perhaps he had.

Turns out the title “guide” can be used rather loosely depending on where you hunt. In North America, there are no federal laws that define, test, or regulate hunting guides–and often no state or provincial regulations, either.

In other words, your guide could really have been the cook–or your outfitter’s brother-in-law, the local bartender, or some cowboy dragged in off the street. And it all would have been legal. Caveat emptor.

I once suffered nine days at the hands of a sheep guide who’d never guided a sheep hunter, never hunted a sheep himself, and never even touched one, dead or alive, unless you counted domestic woolies on his Dad’s farm. He stalked rams from below, sometimes with the wind at his back, and had a tough time deciding if any were legal. Needless to say, we did not get a ram on that trip.

Then there was the elk guide who’d just graduated from a guide school in Montana. He tied a mean diamond hitch and wore a pretty red silk bandana, but had yet to hunt an elk. Another time, following a shouting match with the outfitter, our guide walked out and our outfitter was later overheard whispering to the cook, “You ever guided for moose?”

Desperate times call for desperate measures. But how do make sure you aren’t the victim of those desperate measures?

Alas, not all guides are trained, experienced, rugged hunters, shooters, or even backcountry campers. Even “officially licensed” guides aren’t necessarily skilled outdoorsmen. Many western states, including Idaho, Montana, Colorado, Wyoming, and Alaska, test, regulate, and license guides through State Licensing Boards. Until a prospective guide passes the appropriate tests, he cannot legally guide hunters. In many, perhaps most, cases, however, the Board of Guides and Outfitters is more interested in keeping track of illegal guiding activity (guiding without a license) than guide competency. On the sixty-question exam, eight questions pertain to woodsmanship and game care, two to survival, one to firearm safety, nine to first aid, and thirty-eight to hunting and outfitting laws. This doesn’t necessarily mean a person passing this written exam doesn’t have good guiding skills, but neither does it ensure it. To my way of thinking, a Guide and Outfitter Licensing Board should test woodsmanship and hunting skills. To their credit, some do require proof of having taken and passed a basic first-aid class, so your guide can at least save you from frostbite after he gets you lost in the snow.

Lest you think I overplay this, here are the qualifications for becoming a hunting guide in Montana: the appropriate fee: $100.00; proof of current First Aid; current Montana Conservation License; completed application.

That’s it. Now, the Forest Service and Bureau of Land Management, both Federal agencies, specify certain requirements before guides are allowed to operate on their respective jurisdictions –mostly First Aid certification and demonstrated knowledge of property boundaries and land ownership. But nothing about how to recognize mule-deer browse or antelope territorial markers.

If any of this makes you nervous, you’ll love learning that most states allow private landowners, on their property only, to guide or to allow family or friends (with no qualifications whatsoever) to guide hunters. This isn’t necessarily bad. Grandpa might not be able to hobble more than ten yards from the truck, but there’s a good chance he’s seen mule deer bucks hide in the same sage draw for five decades. I’d rather be guided by him than a twenty-five-year-old kid who knows drop and drift tables for the ten most popular cartridges and can bone an elk in thirty minutes but doesn’t know where the game is.

To its credit, Alaska enforces the most stringent requirements on its guides, granting them licenses for Assistant, Class-A Assistant, Registered, and Master Guide based on the number of years they’ve hunted Alaska and/or been employed as hunting guides. In addition, they must provide lists of clients they’ve guided (references). This tactic recognizes and rewards the true proof of guiding competence—real-world experience. A Master Guide must have been licensed in Alaska as a Registered Guide or guide-outfitter for at least twelve of the previous fifteen years and provide a list of twenty-five big-game hunters he or she has guided personally. Rest assured, anyone who has survived that long as an Alaska guide knows his or her stuff.

However, and this is an important point, no degree of testing or licensing can create or guarantee a great guide. There are simply too many intangibles, too many loopholes, and too many qualities that can’t be tested. Ultimately, judging a guide’s ability to work well with and for you comes down to you, with a little help from your outfitter.

Your outfitter is responsible for hiring guides. You are trusting his or her judgment. If you know and trust your outfitter, chances are he’ll provide good guides. If you don’t know the outfitter well, ask who your guide will be, how experienced he or she is (and don’t denigrate women guides, who are some of the best), what her personality is like, and how he likes to hunt. The idea is to match yourself physically and philosophically with your guide. You don’t want a long-legged, impatient mountain climber if you’re a slow-and-steady, still-hunting kind of guy. Nor do you want a cowboy permanently glued to a saddle when you prefer to tiptoe through doghair timber and surprise an elk. Ask also about personal habits that might drive you nuts, such as high-volume snoring, smoking, excessive verbosity, or a sour outlook.

Most outfitters will try to match you to a guide, but few can guarantee your chosen Moses will still be around when you show up. Employee turnover can be fairly high at some outfitters, what with the hard work, long hours, and living cheek to jowl with other guides week after week. Still, if you discover your outfitter burns through a fresh set of guides every year, it might not be a bad idea to investigate the outfitter.

If you’ve hunted with a guide before or have had a trusted friend recommend one, specifically request THAT guide and write it into your contract. Hey, it’s your hunt. Why pay for something you’re not getting? In 2003 I hunted with guide Dawson Deveny at Canadian Mountain Outfitters in the British Columbian wilderness and appreciated him so much that I asked outfitter Bryan Martin for him specifically on a subsequent hunt. The kid is mature and wise beyond his twenty-seven years. He is tough, persistent, enthusiastic, solicitous, and sets a pace to match the hunter, yet he encourages and pushes when necessary to get a job done. Another outstanding young guide is Lance Kronberger, who recently started his own outfitting business, Freelance Outdoor Adventures in Anchorage. Like Dawson, Lance is not only extremely competent but optimistic and productive. The kid studies and knows sheep like a librarian knows the Dewey Decimal System. Not all great guides are young. During a Colorado elk hunt with Tenderfoot Outfitters I was fortunate to be paired with Tal Underwood. Roughly sixty years old, Tal danced up mountains with the best of them, maintained his enthusiasm despite wind and snow, and knew just where to go to get the drop on late-season, spooky bulls.

Despite the pessimism and warnings in this piece, most of today’s hunting guides do a difficult job extremely well. I’m regularly surprised and amazed at how they maintain the energy and positive attitude to deal with bad weather, broken equipment, stubborn horses, and griping hunters day after day after day. We probably have better odds of finding great guides than they do of finding great hunters.

Leave a Comment

Shootin’ Irons

Iron sights are still useful in some hunting situations.

I’ve written about iron sights before. It seems me that, in these days of almost universal scope use, shooting with iron sights is almost a lost art. This is regrettable for two reasons. First, in order to use iron sights properly, precision and consistency are required in centering the front sight blade or bead in the aperture or rear sight. It’s essential to see it the same way and do it the same way every time, or the shots can go really wild. These lessons absolutely apply to shooting with scopes or reflex (red dot) sights, so to my thinking an entire lifetime of shooting is enhanced by first learning to shoot a rifle with iron sights.

Most shooters of my generation started out with open-sighted BB guns and then .22s, used for some combination of plinking, more formal target shooting, and small game hunting. Regrettably, many kids of recent generations have started with scopes. This includes my own daughters, so that’s a failing on my part both as teacher and Dad. Iron sight to scope is an easy transition. Scope to iron sight is not so easy and, as I’ve written before, shooters with decades of scope use under their belts don’t suddenly wake up with magical proficiency with iron sights.

Iron sights are of essentially two types: Open; and aperture or “peep” sight. An open rear sight, customarily barrel-mounted, requires the eye to focus in three planes: Rear sight, front sight, and target. The aperture sight is easier on the eye because the rear opening or aperture can be “fuzzed out,” requiring the eye to focus on two planes: Front sight and target. This is generally a more precise sight because the eye naturally attempts to center the front sight in the aperture and, for older eyes, the two-plane issue is easier because the front sight is farther from the eye than the rear sight. (There are natural reasons why, at some point, most of us need reading glasses, but most of us retain reasonable distance vision). A properly focused scope allows us to superimpose the reticle over the target, requiring the eye to focus in just a single plane, at the target.

The aperture sight is actually an optical sight with the eye naturally centering the front sight in the opening. Precision is determined largely by the size of the opening; a “ghost right” aperture simply uses the larger hole with the aperture removed.

As our eyes age and the ability to focus in multiple planes decreases, quickly and properly resolving iron sights becomes more difficult. This is greatly aided by stock fit. Provided the rifle comes up on target it isn’t always necessary to perfectly resolve the iron sights, especially at close range. So, despite the limitations, I remain convinced that there are certain applications where iron sights are superior to scopes. Traditionally, in my mind, these have included hunting very large game at extremely close range—all elephant hunting and some extremely close-cover buffalo hunting; hunting in a driving rain or blinding snowstorm, where scope lenses are obscured almost instantly; and most hound hunting.

As with elephant hunting, in hound hunting the ranges are usually very short, so the problem is the “tunnel vision” created by use of a scope, but for different reasons. With elephant, and to a less extent a buffalo at very close quarters, there are two issues. First, seeing only a wall of gray or black in the field of vision, and thus having more difficulty rather than less in visualizing the aiming point. Second, with elephants the real danger is often from other elephants rather than the targeted animal, so peripheral vision is critical. With hound hunting the danger is twofold: Whether the animal is bayed or treed, the shot must be certain to preclude a wounded animal mixing with the dogs; if the animal is bayed, then the shot can only be taken when the dogs are absolutely clear, so peripheral vision is again critical.

In general I hold to these principles, but some recent experiences on the one hand reinforce—and on the other hand negate—these long-held concepts. In September I took what was, for many reasons, probably my last elephant. Back in 1985 I took my first elephant, using a .416 with fixed 3X scope. In 2015 I also used a .416, this one with a Leupold 2-7X turned down all the way. In between, for thirty years, all my elephants were taken with iron sights. This last elephant, taken in the Caprivi, was in some of most open country I have ever hunted elephant in. Just looking at the open grassland and scattered patches of cover, I expected an extremely long shot which, in elephant hunting, means maybe forty yards. The Rigby I carried had good iron sights, practiced with and zeroed, so I could have (and should have) removed the scope, but I didn’t. I drew a frontal brain shot at twelve yards, too close for optimum scope use. It worked, but validated my belief that iron sights remain superior for elephant hunting.

The next lesson came in Idaho toward the end of 2015. Donna and I were hunting cougar with veteran houndsman Bruce Duncan. Donna is competent with iron sights, but much more confident with a scope. She intended to use her extremely light MGA .270 with the 3.5-10X scope turned all the way down. Unlike many houndsmen, Duncan doesn’t insist on iron sights only, but he would have his old friend Gertie along just in case. Gertie is a well-worn ’94 Winchester .30-30, both stock and barrel shortened. It has accounted for hundreds of cougars and black bears in his thirty-year career. If I got a chance (only after Donna) I intended to use Gertie.

Donna’s cat treed in a very tall tree, only a sliver of vitals exposed and only with a near straight-up shot. Maybe the shot could have been taken with iron sights, but I’m really glad I didn’t have to try! Just a day later my own shot was even worse, taller tree, steeper angle, branches obscuring part of the chest. I could have hit the cat somewhere with iron sights, I guess, but Gertie’s front sight covered most of the cat and both branches I needed to get past. I switched to a scoped rifle; even though it was a close shot over hounds I needed the single-plane focus of a scope. So let me modify my long-held belief: Iron sights are suitable for most hound hunting, but not for all potential shots.

I suspect that few of us actually hunt with iron sights these days, but most of us have “auxiliary” iron sights on some of our rifles, and we have childlike faith in their strength and durability. My own M94 .30-30 is a short-barreled Trapper. Long fitted with a Lyman receiver sight, it has always been extremely accurate, but I don’t use it much. The other day I took it to the range and discovered (to my horror) that the aperture base was bent, and the strike at fifty yards was four inches high and three inches left.

Very few current iron sights are invincible, so if you intend to actually use them (or even think you might), make sure they’re zeroed with the same diligence you would zero your scope. This is one advantage to the popularity of the AR frame and the so-called “tactical” rifles: “Battle sights” tend to be extremely robust; sporting rifle iron sights are often surprisingly flimsy, in part because today’s makers often don’t expect that they will actually be used. In the case of my ’94, had I taken care to inspect it, the rear sight was visually bent; equally common is for front sights to bend and windage adjustments to be knocked out of kilter. The fix is simple: Retighten or straighten. Then it takes trial and error shooting. If the adjustments are in the rear sight, move the sight in the direction you want the strike of the bullet to move (right for right, up for up). With many battle sights, elevation adjustment is in the front sight; move the sight in the opposite direction you want the strike to move (up for down). Don’t ever take it for granted that iron sights are “on!”

Leave a Comment

Five Secrets to Successful Glassing

The very best binoculars won’t help you unless you know how to use them correctly.

We were very early in an Alaskan bear hunt. The area was good and the weather forecast was favorable. We had time, so we had no reason to be in a hurry. Our guide, Alisha Decker, had glassed a bear from two miles out, a tiny dark speck. Just to see the bear was an amazing feat of glassing, especially from a bobbing boat, but she had home-court advantage: She started hunting the beaches and coves of the Alaska’s “ABC Islands” with her Dad, Jimmie Rosenbruch, when she was seven, so she knows where all the gray rocks and black stumps are. Anything new and dark is likely to be a bear.

So we went in to take a look at the bear, and since this was Donna’s hunt, not mine, I had the luxury of objectivity. We were maybe a mile out before I could actually see the bear, and at about that distance I glanced back at Alisha, who was alternating between steering the boat and looking through her binocular, and I realized she was serious. We weren’t going in to look at this bear. We were going in to shoot him, if we could, because even at that distance, from an unstable platform, she already knew exactly what this bear was. We landed, made an approach, and shot the bear. His hide squared exactly ten feet, a bear you couldn’t pass on the first day, last day, or any day in between. Alisha saw this from an impossible distance.

I cannot give you pointers that will allow such feats of observation. But I can tell you that this is a classic illustration of one of the most important principles in glassing: The idea isn’t just to look; what is important is to see what you’re looking at. How many times have you perfunctorily scanned a hillside, proclaimed it clean, and then kept moving?

Good glass matters, but only if you really use it. I have seen local guides in the Third World–in Africa, Asia, and especially northern Mexico–perform amazing feats of spotting game with absolutely horrible optics. The real enemy of effective glassing isn’t the budget to buy better glass, but laziness and boredom. I freely admit that I have my limits; I can only sit in one spot for so long, and then I get antsy and have to move.

In some cases, that’s OK; for example, spotting white sheep and goats is pretty easy. But with animals that really blend in, like Coues white-tailed deer, there is simply no such thing as too much patience, and no such thing as looking at the same hillside for too long. The guys who are good at it may spend an entire day–and will certainly spend several hours–painstakingly glassing one ridge or valley. I do not pretend to be good at that kind of really serious glassing, but I have learned a lot from it. Coues deer hunting is the most optics-intensive hunting I have done anywhere in the world, so the Coues deer hunt is a great teacher for glassing, and here are some key lessons:

In West Texas, outfitter Hunter Ross takes a careful look for aoudad. This is pretty good glassing technique—nice and comfortable, with the binocular well-rested.

1. You gotta believe. In order to glass effectively you have to believe that what you’re looking for is there, and it’s simply your job to find it. This may be based on scouting, past experience, just the look of the country, whatever, but only if you have confidence that the game you seek is present can you have the patience to keep looking until you see it.

2. Persistence counts. The fact that the game is there doesn’t necessarily mean you can see it. Of course, the animals you’re looking for may not be there on that day, no matter how much faith you have. But they might well be there, but in a location or position where it’s impossible to see them–behind vegetation or in hidden folds in the terrain. So if you really think you’re looking in a very good place, don’t give up. Change angles if possible, and if you have multiple vantage points within reach, change times of day.

3. Movement, color, texture. Human eyes (like those of most predators) key primarily on movement. While it’s true that most animals are more active in the early morning and late afternoon, midday movement is more common than you think. Realistically, no matter how good you are (or how good your glass), most animals will be bedded in positions where they cannot be seen until they move. This also speaks to patience and persistence! However, the human brain does offer other advantages. Unlike most animals, we see colors very well, and we are also able to see textures and the slight differences in reflection between, say, a horn or antler and a branch or rock. When glassing you are always looking for even the slightest clue, and only rarely will it be a complete animal.

4. Get comfy and take a rest! If you are standing up and glassing then you’re really just going through the motions. You aren’t completely steady, and your optics are magnifying your wobbles. You can see animals that are fairly close or relatively obvious, and perhaps you can get a better look at something you’ve noticed with your naked eyes, but you are very unlikely to discover anything new until you rest your optics, no different from shooting a rifle at longer ranges. If there’s a small object or area that you want to see better you can rest against a tree or over the roof of a vehicle, but if you really want to glass, then you need to get comfortable. I like to find a spot where I can sit down and rest my binocular over my knees. That is very comfortable and very effective for me, but even that isn’t the most serious glassing. The guys who are really good at it, like my Coues deer hunting mentors, can pick apart an entire mountain, piece by piece.

Coues deer guides are looking for a very small and indistinct deer in very big country, so they tend to use big optics. For finding game, binoculars are always better than spotting scopes because of the eyestrain from using just one eye, but the Coues deer finders put powerful binoculars–15X, 20X, more–on steady tripods. They’ll get comfortable–often carrying backrests and cushions–and glass for hours. Depending on your country and what you’re looking for, a standard 8X or 10X binocular may be plenty, and under your conditions your knees may work as well as a tripod.

5. Establish a system. Establish a pattern of how you glass, and stick to it. Long-time Coues outfitter Kirk Kelso is as good as anyone I know. He picks a “panel” on a ridge, usually starting at the top and then working down, but that depends on the light. When he feels he has actually seen that panel, not just looked at it, then he moves to the next panel. When he’s done he might move to a different spot, but he might also go right back to the beginning and start over, because the light will have changed and animals might have moved. The important part here is to establish a consistent system so that you not only look at (and try to see) the entire piece of country before you, but you also devote more or less equal time to glassing each nook and cranny.

Unfortunately, in our affluent and technological society we tend to think that we can buy expertise by simply getting better and more sophisticated equipment. This is not true with shooting, and it is not true with glassing. I do believe in good optics, and I genuinely believe that you get what you pay for in optics, but even the very best optics aren’t going to do you any good unless you use them well and properly. Technique is important, but confidence and patience are what really locates game.

A great Coues buck from Chihuahua. I have no idea how far this buck was when first glassed, but I think more than five miles. It takes a bit of luck to see animals at such distances—but if you look long enough and hard enough luck will come along.

Leave a Comment

tablet

Never Miss An Issue!Subscribe Now: 6 Issues for $34.97

More Details
WordPress Video Lightbox Plugin