Sports A Field

Paradise on the Pampas

A combo hunt for birds and big game in central Argentina.

It was late morning, and the day was warming up fast. My outfitter, German, and I were walking quietly, quartering into the wind, when the bulky, reddish-brown forms of two red deer moved ahead of us in the thick brush. I caught a glimpse of what looked like a very large set of antlers disappearing behind the prickly branches of a calden tree. 

Momentarily stupefied by the sight of the enormous rack, I stood rooted to the spot. I glanced at German, who mouthed silently, “Wait.” I nodded almost imperceptibly.

The stags had probably been bedded in the brush before they heard us coming, but the thick vegetation obscured us as well as it had hidden them—I hoped. With that and the wind in our favor, they likely hadn’t seen or smelled us, so maybe they wouldn’t go far. 

After what seemed an eternity, but was probably only ten minutes, we had seen no other movement nor heard any sounds other than the incessant flutter of doves in the treetops. German made a downward gesture with his hand: Slowly. We moved ahead a step at a time, exercising as much stealth as possible in the thick undergrowth. My eyes flicked from the path ahead to my feet, trying not to step on even the smallest twig. We worked our way another fifty yards or so toward where we had seen the antlers disappear.

And then, there they were. Rising above the tangle like the thick branches of old oak trees were two of the most incredible racks I had ever seen. The two magnificent red stags were browsing calmly in the brush just over a hundred yards away, the sunlight gleaming on a veritable forest of tines. 

German set up the shooting sticks, and I rested the .300 Winchester Magnum on them and studied the stags through my scope. They both appeared massive, but German whispered, “The one in front is bigger.” I focused on that one, and at that moment, his head came up and he stared alertly in our direction. 

I reminded myself to ignore the rack and focus on the vitals, which were partially obscured by thick brush. As soon as I broke the shot, I was worried it might have landed a bit high. Moments later, the stag was down, but I worked the bolt quickly and put a second shot into him to be sure. As German and I approached the fallen monarch, we heard the sound of branches breaking, and I caught sight of the rocking-chair rack of the second stag as he vanished in the brush. 

As I knelt to pay my respects to the stag, the size of his antlers took my breath away. “That’s a gold-medal stag,” German affirmed. “Likely eleven or twelve years old.” I tried to count the myriad points, coming up with 10 on one side and 7 on the other.  

The stag was in great condition, with a large body and sleek reddish hide. It was March, and still early in the roar, or brama, as they call the red-deer rut in Argentina. 

Diana Rupp with her red stag from La Pampa Province, Argentina.

Once we had finished our photos, two of German’s assistant guides set to work on my stag, quartering it in minutes using a couple of the most gigantic knives I had ever seen. German suggested we head back to the lodge for lunch, but I was in no hurry to leave, fascinated as I was by watching these experts wield their traditional gaucho knives, which, I later learned, they used just as handily to trim a tree branch or slice a piece of steak. 

Big red stags, among the world’s most magnificent antlered animals, are the first thing big-game hunters think of when they think of Argentina. Red deer were brought to Argentina’s La Pampa Province from Europe in 1906, and they found the brushy habitat to their liking. With good management, populations grew and thrived. 

As my hosts explained it to me, for a red stag in central Argentina, la vida es buena—life is good. They have all the advantage of ideal habitat, plenty to eat, and a far milder year-round climate than they had in their native environs. As a result, Southern Hemisphere stags grow antlers of eye-popping dimensions.

But, as stunning as they are, stags are not the real reason Argentina is the most popular hunting destination in the world, attracting more than 20,000 visiting hunters every year—more than every country in Africa combined. That reason is the ubiquitous eared dove. The resident flocks, numbering in the tens of millions, are considered agricultural pests, consuming as much as 30 percent of the crop yield, and the local farmers encourage hunters to come and shoot as many doves as their shoulders can stand. Avid wingshooters come from all over the world to do exactly that.

While Cordoba is the most common destination for dove shooting, and the foothills of the Andes are the most famous region for stags, La Pampa Province is the place for the hunter who wants to do it all. Its easily accessible location in central Argentina makes it ideally suited to a combo hunt for birds and big game. That’s why I had shepherded both a rifle and a shotgun through Argentina’s complex importation process: I was here to experience the best of both hunting worlds.

From the moment I arrived at the GBH Safaris lodge and game preserve in La Pampa, about 100 miles north of the capital city of Santa Rosa, the terrain in the region, and in fact, the whole hunting vibe, reminded me of Africa. The landscape, consisting of broad openings of tall grass surrounded by large areas of thick brush and dotted with thorny, mesquite-like trees known as calden, is reminiscent of the Dark Continent, as are the fiery orange-red sunsets that paint the horizon every evening. And of course, there’s the familiar thrill of seeing the Southern Cross hanging in the night sky over a crackling campfire—a thrill that never gets old. 

The comfortable GBH Safaris lodge in La Pampa Province, Argentina.

The Argentine culture, however, is rich and distinctive. Hunters enjoy a hearty midday asado, followed by a long afternoon siesta. Late-night dinners are accompanied by goblets of excellent local malbec. Seemingly every local is drinking mate out of a gourd with a straw. If you’re lucky, you’ll glimpse gauchos on horseback working cattle, many of them wearing traditional dress and riding effortlessly on sheepskin-lined saddles. And over it all soar seemingly endless flocks of the speedy and challenging game bird the locals call palomas.

I had awakened on my first morning in Argentina to a deafening cacophony of birds. As I would soon learn, the pampas are home to an astonishing array of feathered flying creatures, including noisy flocks of green parakeets, crested caracaras, eagles, flycatchers, and woodpeckers. The doves are in huge flocks nearly everywhere you look, lifting from the trees in shifting black clouds and rocketing over your head on whistling wings.

Because central Argentina’s balmy climate allows for year-round staggered planting and harvesting, doves breed prolifically and they rarely lack for a good meal. I had read about the incredible numbers of these birds, but it was still mind-boggling to stand in a field and watch them wing overhead by the thousands.

Doves and pigeons are considered agricultural pests in Argentina. Dove numbers are legendary, and the opportunity to shoot large numbers attracts hunters from all over the world.

The way of life in Argentina involves late nights and a long afternoon siestas, so for me it took a bit of getting used to, but it works very well for hunting. On a typical day, we would have a morning dove shoot, a hearty lunch and a long break in the afternoon, then head back out for stags or blackbuck in the evening, followed by an after-dark sojourn for pigs or varmints. Dinner would be served as late as 11 p.m. or midnight, followed by a few hours of sleep and another enjoyable day in the field.

The lodge was surrounded by fields of standing corn and cut sunflowers, so we didn’t have to go far to find great dove shooting. Four or five shooters would typically spread out along a field edge or fence line and target birds as they flew across it. While we didn’t have individual “bird boys,” as many lodges do, German’s guides walked along the line periodically, keeping us well supplied with shells and drinks and anything else we needed.

The little palomas are blazing fast and wary. They say doves can fly 55 mph, and I don’t doubt it. I quickly learned not to bother with birds that had flown past me, as they would have already put on their afterburners. Instead I concentrated on incoming doves and crossing shots. As long as I was able to conceal myself behind a tall weed, I had the best luck on incomers, frequently dropping them on the toe of my own boot.

After we’d been in the field for a few hours, the guides would roll up in a truck to pick us up. They’d usually find me surrounded by a pile of doves and a much larger pile of empty shell casings, tired, slightly sunburned, and grinning.

Doves are a challenging gamebird to hit, but the vast numbers of them in Argentina give you plenty of opportunities to hone your wingshooting skills.

In addition to red stags, our big-game list included blackbuck and wild boars. The boars are largely nocturnal, and although I ventured out a couple of nights after dark, I never saw one, although I was treated to sightings of Patagonian hares, a silver fox, and a black-and-white rodent called a vizcacha. 

I was, however, hoping to close the deal on a blackbuck, another introduced species (this one originally from India) that has thrived in central Argentina alongside the red deer. Significantly smaller than our pronghorn, these animals have tall, twisting horns and dark, beautifully marked coats from which they get their name. I spent several enjoyable hours spotting and stalking these lovely, elusive little antelope, but each time they gave me the slip in the thick bush.

Late one afternoon I was sitting in an elevated blind with a guide named Matteo, who had taken some time out of working his wizardry on the lodge’s outdoor clay oven and barbecue grill to help me look for a blackbuck, which he called antilope. I know very little Spanish, and good-natured Matteo didn’t speak a word of English, so we had plenty of laughs as we attempted, with varying degrees of success, to communicate. 

As evening approached, a bachelor group of blackbuck rams materialized out of the brush about 500 yards away. I studied them through my binocular, then turned to Matteo, who was doing the same. He looked at me with a grin and said, “Grande!”

That was good to know, but there were a dozen rams in the herd. They all looked grande to me, but I was certainly no expert. As the herd worked its way toward us, feeding slowly, I studied the rams but could tell little difference between them. 

As they began to move into range of our position, I searched every corner of my brain for my limited Spanish vocabulary. Finally I came up with, “Todos?” (All?)

Matteo nodded enthusiastically. “Si! Todos. Grande.”

Well, that made it easy. About 150 yards from the blind, the herd stopped and began milling nervously, and I figured it was now or never. A nice-looking ram was standing clear of the others, and I rested the rifle and carefully squeezed off a shot. Hit through both lungs, he bolted forty yards and dropped stone-dead as the other rams scattered into the trees. 

Indian antelope, also called blackbuck, were introduced to Argentina in the 1920s.

The blackbuck turned out to be a very fine, mature ram. We walked up to him as a stunning sunset bathed the pampas in an orange glow. With Matteo’s help, I photographed the beautiful animal in the evening light as a flock of doves fluttered into a waterhole nearby. For a hunter in Argentina, la vida es buena.

For more information on this hunt, contact German Brandazza, GBH Safaris: gbhsafaris.com.ar.

The Lupo and the Cordoba 

Argentina is not an easy place in which to import your own firearms, so if you’re going to go through the hassle of bringing your own guns for a bird-and-big-game combo hunt, they might as well be the best possible tools for the job.

I can’t imagine a more ideal rifle/shotgun combo than the one I used on this hunt: Benelli’s Lupo BE.S.T. in .300 Winchester Magnum and the Ethos Cordoba BE.S.T. shotgun in 20-gauge. 

The Benelli Lupo BE.S.T. in .300 Winchester Magnum is both beautiful and extremely accurate.

The Lupo rifle comes in several configurations, and every one of these guns I’ve tested has been extremely accurate and consistent. The Lupo BE.S.T. rifles are particularly special, featuring premium AA-grade walnut stocks and Benelli Surface Treatment (BE.S.T.) finish, guaranteed against rust and corrosion for 25 years. Beautiful and bombproof is a pretty irresistible combination in a rifle. I fed the Lupo Hornady’s Precision Hunter ammo with 178-grain ELD-X bullets, which performed perfectly on both the stag and the blackbuck.

Benelli’s Ethos Cordoba shotgun in 20 gauge was an excellent choice for dove shooting.

If you’re going to shoot boxes and boxes of shells at doves, you need a soft-shooting but extremely durable and dependable gun that fits you well. The sleek Ethos Cordoba BE.S.T. shotgun fits the bill. Ported barrels and the ComforTech recoil-reduction system helped my shoulder withstand the rigors of repeated shots, and the inertia-driven semiauto proved flawlessly reliable. I also liked the beveled loading port, large bolt handle, and enhanced trigger guard, which made it easy to load and shoot while wearing my lightweight shooting gloves. And since it also has the BE.S.T. finish, this shotgun boasts excellent rust and corrosion protection.—D.R.

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The Deer of Spring

Early in the season may be the best time of all to hunt roe deer.

Image above: This is a nice roebuck with typical three-tined antlers, nothing special, just a nice, average roebuck–sort of like a decent 8-point or medium 10-point whitetail.

The world over, most deer are in hard antler in autumn, so deer hunting is generally a fall pursuit. What that means depends on where you are. In the Northern Hemisphere, it’s September, October, and November. In the Southern Hemisphere, with the seasons opposite, March, April, and May are prime time for red and fallow deer. Tropical deer mess this up a bit. At least some axis, hog deer, muntjac, sambar, etc. are in hard antler in any month. Most of North America’s introduced axis deer come into hard antler in the spring, and rut in July.

In its natural state on its native turf, the roe deer of Eurasia are the primary exception. Males are in hard antler in May, and will shed in early November. Most European countries have rigidly set hunting seasons, just like American states, based around sustainable harvest goals. The biggest difference: That harvest goal is achieved by a much smaller hunting public. Bag limits are generally unknown; it doesn’t matter how the quota is divvied up, just so it’s met. And, by our standards, seasons are ridiculously long.

In Europe, hunting is very much a harvest, with management quotas established. These bucks were taken on a May hunt in southwestern England, with the wildflowers in full bloom. These bucks range from small to fairly large, and the venison is all spoken for by local restaurants.

Seasons vary from country to country, but most roebuck seasons start between April 1 and the beginning of May. Typically, they run into or through October, shutting down before the males start to lose their antlers. Because of management goals, some places run later seasons for females only. I did a driven hunt in Germany in November, with roe deer females on the hit list. I’m guessing European hunters in the group, with more experience, could judge sex more readily than I could. I saw several bucks, pedicels obvious and off-limits, but as small, gray deer drifted (or dashed) through, I didn’t have the confidence to even consider a shot. I waited for pigs.

A dainty roe deer doe crosses a small stream. Experienced European hunters would probably know instantly from body shape that this is a female. Outsiders must look for the antlers, which are often partially obscured by the ears.

With six- to seven-month seasons, hunting pressure light throughout, and Europe’s intensive wildlife management, there’s really no bad time to hunt roebuck. In Austria, Czech Republic, and Italy, I’ve had good roebuck hunting in September and clear into October. However, with ideal hunting for other game (such as red and fallow deer) taking precedence in the fall, most European hunters feel there are two ideal periods to hunts roebuck: The first few weeks of the season, and during the rut, which is in July.

Roebuck hunting in the rut is a little like whitetail hunting in the rut. Older bucks come of the woodwork searching for females, and that’s when big bucks nobody has ever seen before might wander in. Also, it’s the period when skilled hunters have the most success calling roebuck, which is one of the most exciting ways to hunt almost any game (when it works).

Given a choice, I prefer to hunt early. In part, this is because of my North American roots: We tend to be overly focused on the criticality of Opening Day: we feel we must get in there while the game is undisturbed and strike before the orange-clad hordes stink up the woods. The latter doesn’t happen in Europe, but the undisturbed aspect is valid everywhere. With roebuck in spring, there are other advantages. After the long winter, things are greening up, and deer are coming out of the thick stuff and feeding on succulent new growth.

Taken in Romania on the first of May, start of the season, this is a good roebuck, reasonable bases, good length and tines, but not medal class.

Also, and perhaps more important, spring is a wonderful time to be in the woods. Weather is still cool and crisp, wildflowers are everywhere, mushrooms are popping. In North America, we see this with spring turkey hunting, sometimes with black bear, but we don’t get to savor the long, soft days of spring and early summer while deer hunting.

The roebuck, Capreolus capreolus, is a small-bodied deer, large bucks weighing up to perhaps 75 pounds, with short three-tined antlers. Taxonomy places them in the same sub-family as the North American deer of genus Odocoileus, and indeed they have many parallels with our white-tailed deer. They are browsers, bedding in cover and thriving in edge habitat. I like to describe them as “Europe’s whitetail,” widespread and popular.

There are major differences: We have dozens of whitetail races and subspecies. Continent-wide, from the British Isles to eastern Turkey and Iran, there is just one European roe deer. Some biologists separate the isolated populations in Italy and Spain as unique subspecies. Not all agree, and hunters’ record-keeping systems recognize just one European roebuck. The only other roebuck is the Siberian roebuck (C. pygargus), found in varying densities from Kazakhstan to Korea. The Siberian roebuck is much larger, big males up to 130 pounds, similar antlers but longer and taller. I took my one and only Siberian roebuck in the forests of northern Mongolia twenty years ago; otherwise, I know little about them.

The Siberian roebuck of Asia is a significantly larger animal than the European roebuck, with bucks weighing over a hundred pounds. This is Boddington’s only Siberian roebuck, taken in northern Mongolia in 2005.

In recent years I’ve often been asked, “are roe deer found in Texas?” Or anywhere outside of Europe? Well, you can find almost any living creature on one or another Texas ranch. Vague references suggest roe deer have existed in Texas since the 1930s. I don’t doubt it, but I have never been on a ranch that boasted a breeding population. While European red deer have been widely introduced in the Western Hemisphere and South Pacific, this has not been the case with roe deer. You want to hunt roe deer, you need to go to Europe.

This is not a problem. Top to bottom, east to west, Europe offers a lot of opportunity to hunt roebuck. European hunters are accustomed to pay-as-you-go hunting. They love their roebucks, and costs are high for “medal class” trophies. Not so much for nice, representative specimens. Interestingly, to Europeans, roebuck quality is typically judged by mass and pearling at the base, per their CIC system. American hunters are more immersed in systems that place more emphasis on beam and tine length. So, what you or I find impressive, and might consider spectacular because of height and tine length, might not even make bronze by European standards. 

Costs vary by country, but much roebuck hunting is wonderfully affordable. Since almost all hunting in Europe is considered a harvest—with a necessary quota—it’s commonplace to have the opportunity to take multiple bucks.

With their wide range, big roebucks are where you find them, like whitetails. Also like whitetails, some areas are known for producing bigger antlers. At the far north of their range, Sweden produces exceptional roebuck. So does Eastern Europe, perhaps especially the rich farmlands of the Danube Valley. My best buck was taken on a wonderful May hunt in Hungary, during gorgeous weather, a couple of roebucks in virtually every field. I took another exceptionally long-antlered buck in Romania, at the very start of the season. Not historically known for big roebuck, Spain has produced some dandies in recent years.

The only catch: As with whitetails, costs are likely to be higher in areas known for exceptional antler quality. I think some of my most enjoyable roebuck hunting has been in England and Scotland. There are big bucks in both places. Jason Hornady got a big one in southwestern England on a May 2014 hunt, by far the largest among a score of bucks taken by our group. Realistically, however, exceptional bucks are few and far between in the UK. That’s just fine. It’s a harvest, with the venison all spoken for. Wonderfully inexpensive, lots of bucks, take ’em as they come. No pressure, just plain fun.

Anywhere, some hunting may be done from stands (often just like whitetail stands), but almost all of my roebucks have been taken by spot-and-stalk, working around the edges of agriculture. It’s always an enjoyable way to hunt, but especially pleasant in mild spring and early summer weather. The fields are turning emerald green, and there are often wildflowers everywhere. You won’t take a buck on every stalk, or on every morning or afternoon outing. It’s not unusual to average 50 percent. In the fall, I love whitetails. In the spring, it’s hard to beat stalking roebuck.  

Like whitetails, big roebucks are where you find them. Jason Hornady took this excellent buck on a May hunt in southwestern England.

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The Elephant in Africa

Complicated present-day realities conflict with popular perceptions. Can there really be too many elephants?

Image above: Elephants in Bwabwata National Park in northeastern Namibia.

The expression on my face in the photos afterward sums it up: still wide-eyed, slightly somber, almost confounded. It isn’t the look of a hunter enjoying what time and effort in the field has finally brought his way; an old Cape buffalo or eland would have had me smiling and perhaps relieved. But I never thought to shoot an elephant. 

To a boy riveted by the tales of the old Africa hands, ivory hunting seemed the most romantic and dangerous way imaginable to make a living, and I used to wonder if I’d have the grit to confront and try to kill the largest mammal on land with a chunk of metal the size of a fingertip. 

But that was then, and today I try to live in the present. Because they are social, intelligent, evidently thoughtful, and even self-aware, elephants for me abide on a plane above their fellow species of savanna and forest. I have stalked elephants until I could look at them through my sights (and whisper Boom!), but truly killing one seemed beyond the pale—never mind the crazy trophy fees. Once or twice the need to maybe shoot one in self-defense has come up, but the situations evaporated. This time, though, I was asked to do it. Or rather, I was offered the opportunity to do it and I couldn’t say no. It seemed to be a part of safari that few people experience now, and (in the absence of a veterinary team) there was a compelling reason to shoot this one. 

An elephant had appeared in the meadow on the far side of the river—the Okavango, in northeastern Namibia. He moved slowly along the high bank until it flattened out and he could step into the water with dignity, and from there he angled out into the current, wading and then swimming. It is commonplace to see elephant and buffalo in that meadow, but this elephant was solitary and massive and center-stage, and he held our attention until he disappeared from the binoculars. 

The next morning we came upon him a few miles away, still alone—and bedded down. The Mahango core wildlife area, in Bwabwata National Park, is alive with elephants; it’s unusual to see just one, and I’ve never seen a mature bull anywhere but on his feet. Tracker Gideon hopped off the truck and jogged toward him, clapping his hands. The elephant stood up and moved away, laboriously. In fact, he was limping, heavily favoring his right forefoot. I had to wince, watching him. Jofie Lamprecht, our Professional Hunter, grabbed eight seconds of video and WhatsApped it to the district warden. 

An hour and a half later, the warden responded. Jofie studied his phone and turned to me: “Want to shoot an elephant? The warden says, ‘Take him out before he collapses.’ That’s when the vultures will arrive and the predators start eating on him.” 

The Caprivi District, Namibia, 22 May 2023: The injured elephant.

It wasn’t hard to find him again, or to stalk within a few yards. It is a sobering sight, an animal of that size and presence throwing up its head and crumpling to the ground. I didn’t hear the shots, didn’t feel the recoil, and can’t tell you exactly where I put the coup de grâce into the top of his skull from behind. My mind was taken up by the enormity of it all. Then there was a stillness before Jofie and Mike and Gideon and Nadila solemnly shook my hand.

People vs. elephants

A century ago, Africa was thought to have 10 million elephants. When I began to visit, 35 years ago, there may have been about 1.1 million of them remaining. Today there are, reportedly, barely more than 400,000 and everyone “knows” that elephants are “endangered.” I’ve been scolded for killing even one of them. 

Yet virtually everywhere in Southern Africa that I’ve stayed has been heaving with elephants. I get to go to prime wildlife country, though, not where agribusiness, mining, or other development is going on, or even where villages are expanding into the bush and families are hacking out room for a few stalks of mealies and a herd of goats. It is elephant habitat that is disappearing—and taking the elephants with it. 

Ian Parker, who became an outspoken wildlife consultant after leaving the Kenya Game Department in 1964, reminded me (by email) of some hard truths: “Jonathan Kingdon [author of Mammals of Africa, Vols. I-VI] mapped East African elephant range at three points in time—1925, 1950, and 1975. It had declined progressively by over 60 percent. In a nutshell, elephant and human distributions were mirror images of one another. At 20 people per square kilometer, elephant populations were vestigial. At 40 to the square kilometer they were gone. In 1900 the [human] population of Africa was estimated at ~140 million, today it is 1.460 billion, a 10-fold increase; elephant range has declined in similar proportion and will continue to do so for as long as human increase persists.” 

Yet, paradoxically, in many of their shrinking ranges—the parks, reserves, hunting concessions, and other conservation areas, and the less-accessible corners that have not yet been hard-hit by humans—elephants are multiplying, sometimes well beyond capacity, and human-elephant conflict is intensifying, despite uncommonly high tolerance by some rural African people. Ecologists are warning us that elephants can bring their own, and other species’, demise with them. They can eat trees, after all.

At 201,000 square miles, KAZA TFCA is the world’s second-largest conservation area, spreading across five African countries. Map courtesy of LTandC.org (Linking Tourism & Conservation)

The recent KAZA survey

In 2022, an aerial survey of KAZA, the Kavango Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area—201,000 square miles, 128,640,000 acres, across parts of Angola, Botswana, Namibia, Zambia, and Zimbabwe—found 227,900 elephants, likely more than half of Africa’s remnants. 

Aerial wildlife surveys are notoriously difficult, especially in Africa, but this is 10,930 more elephants than were counted there in 2014-15. Is this a real increase or due to survey variations or migration? In any case, the “carrying capacity” of KAZA has been bumped up by large sums of conservation money—spent, for example, on drilling artificial water holes and opening up migration corridors—so the region may be able to sustain more elephants for longer than previously possible. However, the survey also found slightly more elephant carcasses this time; Darren Potgieter, the survey coordinator, said this would be studied, and cautioned that “factors such as aging populations, improved sampling methodologies, environmental conditions, and poaching could all be at play here.” But wildlife biologists now point to elephant deaths in KAZA due to drought and disease and to vegetation destruction, which may signal elephant overpopulation. Climate disruption surely plays a role too. 

Some breeding herds and bulls migrate across KAZA, but the new survey found by far the most elephants within Botswana: 131,909. (Also 3,840 in Zambia; 5,983 in Angola; 21,090 in Namibia; and 65,028 in Zimbabwe. Yes, these add up to 227,850, not 227,900.) This is 1,970 more than the earlier survey found in Botswana—and about 120,000 more elephants than Botswana was thought to have c. 1960, when safari hunting began to develop there. 

Botswana’s elephant numbers

No one knows just how many elephants Botswana actually can absorb, but in 1991 its Dept. of Wildlife and National Parks decided that “no more than 55,000 elephants could be sustained without habitat degradation” and recommended “adaptive management.” Botswana is now the epicenter of concern about elephant overpopulation, and some observers are sounding the alarm about “desertification.” Botswana’s 82-page 2021-26 Elephant Management Plan notes the “undesirable impact” that elephants can have on their habitats, and that in some areas canopy trees are being killed by elephants faster than they can re-grow, but adds that “impacts on other species, loss of biodiversity, effects on essential processes and on the ability of the ecosystems to sustain the elephants may all be disputed due to lack of evidence.” 

However, “elephant-induced vegetation change” in Botswana has been formally studied since at least 1993 and probably earlier. The best layman’s discussion of the situation I’ve read is a long article (“Elephants: A Crisis of Too Many, Not Too Few”) by Dr. Brian Child that I prepared for the April 2020 issue of the e-zine Conservation Frontlines.

Elephants gouging the trunk of a baobab tree in Botswana. Photo by Ronnie Crous.

Dr. Child has a PhD from Oxford in wildlife and livestock economics; he grew up in Botswana and Zimbabwe, where his father was a national park ecologist and director. In short, to curb the destruction of vegetation in Botswana by elephants, and the resulting impact on other wildlife, he proposes a return to the nation’s successful and apparently sustainable commercial “conservation estate,” which from about 1960 to 1990 derived employment, revenue, hides, ivory, meat, clothing and artifacts from game—all while wildlife numbers rose steadily and elephants apparently were kept in balance. The nation has taken a step in this direction by building a $15 million multi-species abattoir in Tsabong, to support game farming and hunting. (Can it process elephants?) 

Managing elephant populations

Maintaining elephant numbers is one thing; reducing a large surplus is entirely another. Ivory poaching has decreased and become almost negligible, at least in reducing overall elephant numbers; and safari hunters (Botswana may also allow “citizen hunters” to take elephants at sharply reduced fees) likely could not take off enough elephants even to blunt their average annual replacement rate of about 5 percent, much less bring present populations down to ecologically healthier levels. Foreign hunters in Botswana and Zimbabwe, where elephant numbers are highest, presently “harvest” about 500 elephants annually; simply to begin to flatten elephant population growth, these hunting numbers would have to increase approximately 20-fold.

The villagers who now descend upon an elephant kill with pangas and ecstatic cries might begin to roll their eyes and say, “What, elephant again? How about a nice hippo instead?” Trophy fees would have to drop dramatically, to put elephants within reach of more hunters, and hunting companies might see this as more work and risk for less pay—or new operators might arrive, setting off turf battles and causing problems through inexperience. The off-take could not all be bulls, either, for this would drastically skew herd dynamics. Inevitably, in some areas photo-tourists would encounter more elephant kills, with the opportunity for more social-media friction between hunters and anti-hunters. 

Regardless of these market conditions, elephant populations must be managed. Botswana’s elephant plan does not mention culling. Culling is still included in South Africa’s National Norms and Standards for the Management of Elephants, updated in 2008, but to my knowledge it has not been carried out there—or anywhere else—since 1994, in Kruger National Park. From 1960 to 1991, Zimbabwe reportedly culled or hunted 46,775 elephants. Following the Trans Africa Drought of 1977-81, South-West Africa (as Namibia was then) said it culled 570 elephants to reduce pressure on black rhinos and roan antelope in especially dry areas.

Culling is not a one-time adjustment; elephant births may increase afterward because more food is available, and the need for culling becomes ongoing. Culling can be effective and inexpensive, but it does have drawbacks and logistical challenges. 

Leaving tons of carcasses to rot in one spot can lead to outbreaks of disease, and heaven help the national park whose visitors come upon a charnel ground of 40 or 50 elephant carcasses, old and young, male and female, piled together and reeking in the sun. To prevent social disintegration, entire family groups are wiped out together. Selectively killing a few “problem” animals, as every elephant-range country does occasionally, is not culling in this sense; nor is generally illegal “retaliatory” killing by rural people who’ve been harmed by elephants.

In Kruger Park, in northeastern South Africa, where roads are good, the carcasses were taken in closed trucks to abattoirs that canned the meat for sale in markets. The BBC News pointed out that these contractors and distributors could not gear up for the work without some assurance it would continue—another factor in an overall culling plan. (But in Botswana, trucking elephant carcasses out of the Okavango Delta, for example, is impossible; those animals would have to be intercepted elsewhere along their migratory routes—if even feasible.)

Reportedly, the canned meat sold well. If CITES, the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora, were to lift the counterproductive ban on regulated trade in elephant ivory, the economic—in addition to the ecological—incentive for culling might be even stronger. 

Besides the C-word, other controls

Would it be strong enough to enable KAZA countries to shrug off the subsequent firestorm of protest by international animal-protection groups? And at least the threat of a tourism boycott? Candidly, this is what politicians and bureaucrats fear most about culling elephants—videos on social media, followed by accusations of a return to “apartheid-era” or “colonialist” thinking. In 2021, a news report that Zimbabwe’s Parks and Wildlife Authority was considering culling elephants drew instant condemnation from a group that equated culling with extinction.

So what’s a nation with too many elephants to do? Recently Namibia and Zimbabwe sold a few hundred live-caught elephants to China and Middle Eastern countries for zoos. The goal was not to reduce elephant numbers but rather to raise some much-needed cash for conservation. The animals were captured and moved under veterinary supervision, but nevertheless an international public outcry followed. 

Relocating elephants in-country—away from villages, for example—has been tried too, with little success; elephants tend to return. As well, the cost is prohibitive; in 2018, Zimbabwe reported that capturing and moving 100 elephants cost about $400,000, an unsustainable expense. 

Fertility control for elephants has been studied extensively, beginning with the reproductive physiologies of cows and bulls and proceeding to the social aspects of breeding among different age classes, and then gestation and lactation periods and intercalving intervals among cows. My favorite part is comparing NDVI, the Normalized Differential Vegetation Index, to fecal progesterone metabolite concentrations during estrus and in pregnancy, and how these vary in the wet and dry seasons. 

Briefly, then, it’s not just a matter of darting elephants with a vaccine—which hasn’t been developed yet, or tested—from a helicopter. Even if it were, the effects of contraception on elephant behavior have not been determined. (The behavior of animals that weigh tons is consequential.) The final considerations are methodology and costs, which are, respectively, complex and high. The impacts of birth control are not immediate, either; population numbers will begin to go down only when the mortality rate finally exceeds the birth rate.  A cow elephant’s gestation period is nearly two years. 

Meanwhile, in Namibia . . .

To return to the nation where this story began: With respect to wildlife, and especially elephants, Namibia may be unique. Its Constitution mandates the “maintenance of ecosystems, essential ecological processes and biological diversity . . . and utilization of living natural resources on a sustainable basis for the benefit of the Namibians, both present and future.” (“Sustainable use” has become code for “hunting.” Namibia strongly supports managed hunting, for a variety of reasons.)

Not only has Namibia’s total elephant population approximately tripled, to about 24,000, since independence from South Africa in 1990, but thanks partly to the nation’s communal conservancies, its elephant-distribution range is actually expanding; no habitat shrinkage there. (Only northeastern Namibia lies within KAZA; The nation has elephants in the northwest too, which add to the 21,090 counted in the 2022 survey.)

This is not to say that elephants are not a concern in Namibia—human-elephant conflict is worsening—but that, in the second-least-densely populated country on earth, there is still room for elephants and people to prosper. And, overall, Namibia sincerely appreciates its elephants; they draw visitors. 

Namibian hunting operators are presently allowed to export 93 elephant bulls per year. The nation’s 119-page National Elephant Conservation and Management Plan 2021/2022 – 2030/2031 contains but one sentence that could refer to culling: “Other ways of reducing overconcentration of elephants (lethal removal, translocation) are used as means of last resort.” 

A young baobab tree killed by elephants. The collar of rocks around the trunk was meant to deter them, but if it isn’t maintained eventually the elephants roll the rocks away.

In June 2021, I returned to Bwabwata National Park, in Namibia’s Caprivi District, for the first time in 16 years. Lions roared along the river almost every night, something I’d not heard in 2005; I also saw many more elephants than in 2005. In June 2023, when I shot the injured tusker, we came across even more elephants than in 2021. This is likely coincidental; but it was clear that, in two years, more of the baobab trees had been attacked—the bark stripped away and the trunks splintered—by elephants. With their enormous canopies and root systems, their fruit and their ability to store moisture, baobabs are fundamental to the semi-arid savannah ecosystem; and they may live for centuries—if unmolested. 

The lessons of Tsavo

The worst elephant boom-and-bust of modern times was the Tsavo die-off of 1970-73 in Kenya, when elephant overpopulation and drought turned 8,000 square miles of woodland into a moonscape. Poachers and native hunters as well as the drought were blamed, but the reality was that elephant “conservation” had been too successful within Tsavo National Park. According to Peter Beard (The End of the Game), “A director of the Tsavo Research Team estimates that thirty thousand elephants died there from starvation, constipation, and heart disease—all attributable to density and mismanagement.”

Concerning the evident increase in elephant numbers in Bwabwata National Park and their impact on the baobab trees, Dr. Malan Lindeque (former Permanent Secretary of Namibia’s Ministry of Environment, Forestry and Tourism) told me that he doesn’t think a Tsavo scenario is likely there because BNP is part of KAZA—an interconnected system that enables elephants to move from the park into adjacent Angola, southwestern Zambia and Botswana. In other words, there’s still room. I didn’t ask for his thoughts on what Botswana should do with its 130,000-plus elephants. 

Harking back to Dr. Child’s comments about Botswana’s “conservation estate”: By 1980, a company called Botswana Game Industries was buying hides, furs, ivory, and other raw materials from more than 5,000 local Batswana hunters and refining them into millions of dollars’ worth of wildlife products. After diamonds and cattle, BGI reportedly was Botswana’s largest revenue producer. 

Ian Parker was a shareholder in and consultant to the company; in 1983, he told me, he advised management to change course: “I’d been tracking the success of the animal-rights movement worldwide in convincing a gullible public that it was ethically wrong to buy wildlife products.” Since BGI couldn’t afford an equally powerful counter-PR campaign, Parker felt it best to bow to the inevitable and switch over to processing cattle hides. But today, Parker says, African nations that heed foreign animal-rights groups and anti-hunting politicians have only themselves to blame.

A different standard for Africa

Ironically, while hunters kill enormous numbers of animals across North America, Great Britain, and Europe, some uninformed or misinformed citizens of those countries have let themselves be convinced that it is proper to demand that nations thousands of miles away cease the killing of their wildlife, however damaging, dangerous and over-abundant it may be. Is this not neo-colonialism? And did these Western countries not wipe out, or nearly, some of their own megafauna before learning basic conservation lessons? 

Legislation to ban the import of hunting trophies has come before the British Parliament three times in recent years. In March 2024, six African nations sent delegations to London to protest the proposed ban on the grounds that it would reduce funding for wildlife conservation (including anti-poaching patrols to protect elephants) and severely impact people that rely on hunting for jobs, revenue, and meat. 

Botswana’s Assistant Minister for State President offered to send 10,000 elephants to London’s Hyde Park so that Britons could “have a taste of living alongside elephants, which are overwhelming my country. In some areas, there are more of these beasts than people. They are killing children who get in their path. They trample and eat farmers’ crops, leaving Africans hungry. They steal the water from pipes that is flowing to the people. They have lost their fear of humans.

“Elephant numbers, just like those of Scottish stags, have to be controlled. Hunters in the Highlands pay to shoot deer and put their antlers on their walls. So why is Britain trying to stop Africa doing the same?

“Botswana is the most successful country in the world at looking after elephants, buffalo, and lions. We don’t want colonial interference from Britain.”

Well-managed hunting can be a significant component of conservation, particularly in funding and incentivizing it. Culling, or cropping—of deer, wolves, bison, and any number of invasive species, from cane toads to feral housecats, rats to mink—is routine in the Western world, and springbok, impala, and other antelope are still periodically thinned in Southern Africa. But all this cuts little ice with people who believe the best way to conserve charismatic animals is to, well, not kill them. 

Killing elephants in particular has become taboo, and even many sensible, experienced hunters say they would not do it; they may grasp the need, but it’s a personal choice. Why are elephants different? We know why; I said it myself, in the third paragraph: They are intelligent, social, thoughtful, self-aware. Elephant-range states face stark choices. 

About the author: Silvio Calabi is a retired publishing executive and a lifelong conservationist and hunter. He lives on the coast of Maine and in the mountains of Colorado.

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What’s a Dik-dik?

These small antelopes are part of Africa’s Tiny Ten.

Photo above: A fine Damara dik-dik ram.

Get your mind out of the gutter. The dik-diks are tiny African antelopes, adapted to arid, semi-desert thornbush. The name comes from Somali, mimicking the female’s chirping alarm call.

Dik-diks are sort of gray to almost rufous, with a distinctive bulbous snout, and a forehead tuft that makes it tricky to see the male’s small, ringed, needle-sharp horns. Depending on race, dik-diks weigh six to maybe thirteen pounds, pencil-legged, a foot to possibly a foot-and-a-half tall. Think “small jackrabbit.” Most of the races have produced horns up to four inches, but three-inch horns are always spectacular. That’s the Rowland Ward minimum for the most-hunted Kirk’s dik-dik of southern Kenya and Tanzania. The Rowland Ward minimum for Namibia’s Damara dik-dik and Guenther’s dik-dik is 2.5 inches–not much horn to look for peeking past the forehead tuft.

Like all dwarf antelopes, dik-diks are tender and tasty, with meat more like a rabbit than an antelope. Although a dik-dik will be savored, they are too small to provide adequate camp fare, and too small for most larger predators to bother with. To many hunters, however, despite its small size, the dik-dik is a major trophy animal, requiring effort and expense.

At least twenty species of dik-diks have been proposed. To this day, their exact differences, boundaries, and classification are debated. With one exception, dik-diks are found only in northeast Africa. The largest one, the Damara dik-dik, is found in northwest Namibia and into Angola. That means the Damara is separated from other dik-diks by a huge stretch of Africa. In animal distribution, such a gap is unusual.

All dik-diks are of genus Madoqua, divided into long-snouted, and short-snouted groups. Damara, Kirk’s, and Guenther’s are considered long-snouted dik-diks. Despite the huge separation, Kirk’s is geographically closest to the isolated Damara, while Guenther’s ranges to the north of Kirk’s. Rowland Ward identifies five short-snouted dik-diks. SCI categorizes six, and their nomenclature is not in agreement. To some extent, it’s a moot point, because several races are found in Somalia, Djibouti, and Eritria, which are not open to hunting. Within living memory, it has never been possible to hunt all the dik-diks.

Guenther’s dik-dik is northernmost of the “long-snouted” dik-diks. Characteristic to all dik-diks: Bulbous proboscis, large eyes, and upright tuft on the center of the forehead.

Depending on which authority one prefers, Ethiopia has four or five distinct races. You’d have to travel the length and breadth of that huge country to hunt them all. Currently, the most huntable dik-diks are probably the Damara in Namibia, Kirk’s in Tanzania, Guenther’s in the northeast corner of Uganda and southern Ethiopia, and Harar and Salt’s dik-dik, also in Ethiopia.

This last is in some dispute. Rowland Ward considers all dik-diks in northern Ethiopia to be Salt’s, this species ranging on through Djibouti and Eritria to Sudan. SCI considers the dik-diks of Ethiopia’s Awash River basin to be a smaller subspecies of Salt’s, called Cordeaux (M. saltiana cordeauxi). In 1993, Joe Bishop and I camped on the Awash and hunted this dik-dik. I’m no expert and can only say that these were very small, visibly half the size of the Damara.

Thanks to Namibia’s large outfitting industry and good management, the Damara is the least costly to hunt. When I first hunted what is now Namibia in 1979, I saw several dik-diks, but at the time they were fully protected. A quarter-century later, one of these little antelopes was a primary goal of a Namibian safari. Then, the “Tiny Ten” of Southern Africa had not been proposed; I just wanted one of these cool little guys. Today, the popularity of the Damara dik-dik has increased because of its necessity for the Tiny Ten. Value promotes protection, which equals more animals. Numbers and availability have increased, although the Damara dik-dik remains a limited-permit animal in Namibia.

Boddington’s Damara dik-dik was taken in 2003, at the time a giant, still a good one. This was his first use of a .22 Hornet in Africa, still his pick as the perfect cartridge for smaller African antelopes, plenty of power, but almost no damage.

I’ve accompanied several hunts for the Damara dik-dik, so I have some experience with that one. I took an excellent Kirk’s dik-dik in Kenya, likewise have seen many in Tanzania, so I also have a little experience there. Joe and I had no trouble finding Cordeaux dik-diks in Ethiopia, but that’s my only experience with a “short-snouted” variety. On my second Uganda hunt in 2017, a Guenther’s dik-dik was at the top of my wish list. From our buffalo camp in Karamoja, we had to go far east near the Kenya border. Once in the dik-dik area, we saw plenty.

Based on this limited experience, all dik-dik hunting seems similar. You look in dry thornbush, glass into shadows. Adults are usually seen in pairs, sometimes with smaller offspring. Dik-diks tend to mate for life, so if a hornless dik-dik is seen, keep looking. Her mate is likely close-by.

Dik-diks are highly territorial. If spooked (as usual) they will scamper off. Don’t panic. Sit tight, or back off and come in from a different angle. Give it a half-hour and they often come slipping back. My Damara, at the time a giant, was taken that way. We spooked a pair from some bushes below a rocky kopje. Hunting with Dirk de Bod, we circled up into the rocks, came back down, and sat among some boulders. Wasn’t long before the female drifted back, soon followed by the big male.

With small antelopes and too-powerful rifles, best to ignore shot placement rules and shoot for the middle to avoid extreme damage. This Guenther’s dik-dik, a primary goal on a 2017 Uganda safari, was taken with Steve Hornady’s .223. Still too much gun for dik-dik, but it dropped instantly with repairable damage.

Many are taken in chance encounters. Always, you know dik-diks are in the area, on license, and on your wish list. When you see good horns, you take the shot. With this little antelope, the quandary is what to shoot him with.  The dik-dik is a special animal, worthy of a life-size mount (which takes up little space) The problem: Taking him effectively without making a mess.

Cover-dwelling dwarf antelopes like forest duikers are customarily taken with shotguns, avoiding cape damage. Dik-diks are nervous little guys living in semi-open scrub, rarely taken within effective shotgun range. The challenge with a rifle is to avoid destruction, so we need accuracy without excessive power.

In Ethiopia, we used outfitter Colonel Negussie’s scoped Brno in .22 rimfire. In Namibia, daughter Brittany used Dirk de Bod’s son’s youth model .22. Placed well, a .22 Long Rifle hollowpoint is adequate, and a .22 is present in most camps. However, effective range is limited. Because of their small size and ability to hide behind a few blades of grass, rarely can dik-diks be seen and judged at distance. Up close, they’re likely to bolt before horns can be judged. In my experience. many opportunities are between 60 and 100 yards, pushing the limits of a .22 LR.

In Kenya, I carried a few 180-grain full-metal-jacket Match loads, which shot to the same point of impact as my 180-grain Nosler Partitions. I figured they’d be perfect for dik-diks and duikers. That was the last and only time I carried two loads for a plains game rifle! It was too complicated to try to switch when an animal was spotted. I managed it on the dik-dik, but even with a solid, the .30-06 was far too powerful. We salvaged only a shoulder mount, a shame for a beautiful dik-dik.

In Uganda in 2017, Steve Hornady brought a .223, which I borrowed for my Guenther’s. I purposefully shot it too far back, and dropped the animal without irreparable damage, but it was still too much gun. On other hunts in Namibia, Trijicon’s Stephen Bindon and my wife Donna used camp .17 HMRs for Damara dik-diks. They were perfect, plenty of range and power, almost no damage. That outfitter, Corne Kruger, happens to have .17 HMR rifles in camp, but they’re not common in Africa.

Donna Boddington’s PH, Corne’ Kruger, had a Marlin .17 HMR available. Both .17 HMR and .22 WMR are uncommon in Africa, but when available are near-perfect for the tiniest antelopes.

When I went for my Damara dik-dik, I took a .22 Hornet barrel for a T/C Encore. We shot two, one for me and one for Dirk, both down on the spot, no visible damage. Since then, I’m convinced the .22 Hornet is ideal for small antelopes. And, unlike the .17 HMR and .22 WMR, it is also versatile, powerful enough for antelopes up to reedbuck and impala. Realistically, it’s awkward to take any rifle on safari that’s perfect for just one animal. So, for a highly specialized animal like dik-dik, we often borrow a camp gun. It makes sense to find out what might be available.

The .22 Hornet remains surprisingly popular in southern Africa. A couple years ago, Harley Young, at eighty-something, came to Frontier Safaris in Namibia needing a klipspringer and Damara dik-dik to complete his Tiny Ten. His 6.5 Creedmoor was perfect for the klippie, but that’s a cannon on dik-dik. Barry Burchell had an Anschutz .22 Hornet but no ammo, so we repaired to his loading bench and whomped up a few rounds, then checked zero. A day later, Harley had a fine Damara dik-dik with a perfect skin.

Tom Fruechtel, then CEO of Leupold, took this exceptional Kirk’s dik-dik in Tanzania’s Masailand. Because of long availability in both Kenya and Tanzania, Kirk’s has probably been the most-hunted of all the species and races of dik-diks.

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Colorado’s Wild Cats: Facts vs. Fiction

UPDATE: Proposition 127 was defeated in November by Colorado voters. Read our analysis here.

Read this before you buy into the claims made by supporters of Colorado’s proposed lion-hunting ban. 

Photo above: A mountain lion in Colorado. Photo copyright Victor Schendel: VictorSchendelPhotography.com

Anti-hunting groups have launched a full-on misinformation campaign in their push to ban mountain lion and bobcat hunting in the state of Colorado. A group called Cats Aren’t Trophies has collected enough signatures to place a measure on the statewide ballot this fall, Proposition 127. The initiative’s backers make numerous false claims about scientific wildlife management in Colorado, and specifically about the legal, regulated hunting of mountain lions and bobcats. (The initiative also mentions lynx, even though lynx are classified as endangered and have not been legal to hunt or trap in Colorado for decades.)

Coloradoans for Responsible Wildlife Management (CRWM), a coalition of science-based conservation groups opposing the initiative, noted in a flyer, “This isn’t about fair chase or management concerns; it’s a deliberate attempt to misinform.”

The truth is that Colorado has thriving and well-managed populations of both mountain lions and bobcats. Hunting and trapping may not be everyone’s cup of tea, but these activities are highly regulated, humane, and selective. And many people don’t realize it, but hunters do eat the meat of their mountain lions, and it is delicious. 

Let’s take a closer look at some of the questionable claims being made by those who are behind Proposition 127.

Myth: Lions and bobcats are declining

Colorado Parks & Wildlife (CPW), the state agency that oversees wildlife in Colorado, employs a staff of trained biologists to monitor wildlife populations through scientific modeling and field research. CPW’s official statewide estimates of the number of independent male and female lions (not including kittens) is 3,800 to 4,400 statewide. 

The agency’s research shows Colorado’s lion population has been growing since 1965, which was the year they were classified as a big-game species. The agency reports: “Both informal and recently collected empirical data suggest Colorado’s lion population is strong and lions are abundant in appropriate habitat.” 

Bobcats are also widespread and doing well. Bobcats are the most common wild cat in North America, with some 1.4 to 2.6 million bobcats nationwide. In Colorado, CPW biologists assess five different metrics each year to make sure bobcat populations are healthy. The information indicates Colorado’s bobcat populations are stable and likely increasing in some areas. 

Lynx were reintroduced into Colorado in 1999, and although their population is stable, they are currently listed as endangered in Colorado. Lynx are protected by both state and federal law, with hunting and trapping entirely prohibited. 

Mark Vieira, CPW’s Carnivore and Furbearer Program Manager, explained that the agency tracks population models for mountain lions in various regions of the state and that biologists have collared hundreds of lions in field studies to verify the population models. 

“Observations of mountain lions point to a growing, healthy, and increasingly expanding population,” he said in a recent presentation detailing how Colorado’s professional biologists manage and monitor cat populations. (Watch his full presentation here.)

Myth: Lion and bobcat hunting is a “trophy hunt”

When the authors of proposed Initiative 91 use the term “trophy hunt,” they are implying that hunters are only interested in the head and hide of the mountain lion and not in taking the meat. First off, that’s not what trophy hunting means, but that aside, here are the facts:

Colorado, like other states, has a “wanton waste” law. That means that hunters who take big-game animals like mountain lions are required by law to take and prepare the meat of the animals for human consumption. Bobcats are classified as furbearers rather than big-game animals and as such are exempt from this requirement, but many hunters also prepare and consume bobcat meat. 

Americans tend to have a cultural bias against eating cat meat, but there is no health or taste reason for this. As lion hunters have discovered, the meat is, in fact, highly palatable. Outdoor writer and hunter Don Thomas, who guided mountain lion hunts for many years, says, “Lion meat is lean, light, fine-grained, and delicate, and can be prepared in any manner suitable for pork or veal.” He once converted a skeptic by serving him a meal of sweet and sour lion scallopini. The doubter loved it.

Those who aren’t as adventurous with their cuisine often make the meat into sausage. One hunter told me he had his lion meat made into spicy snack sticks, which were a hit with everyone who tried them. 

Yes, most hunters also mount their lions or preserve their hides, which is a way of honoring the animal and preserving the experience of the hunt. Before they do, successful hunters are required to present the hides of their lions and bobcats at a CPW office for a mandatory check. The information gathered by the wildlife technicians at these checks is a source of valuable intel for biologists who study these animals.

Myth: Mountain lion hunting is unsporting; it’s like “shooting fish in a barrel”

Mountain lions are secretive and extremely wary animals, and there is nothing easy about hunting them. CPW’s Vieira cited statistics showing that only one in five Colorado mountain lion license holders is successful in harvesting a lion, which hardly sounds like “shooting fish in a barrel.”

Lions can be hunted in several ways, but one of the most common ways is by finding fresh tracks in the snow and then using hounds to trail them until they tree. Like hunting itself, this type of hunt is not everyone’s cup of tea, but it is a method of hunting that has been used for centuries, and it often turns into an extreme physical challenge, since the hunter must follow the cat and hounds on foot (or with skis or snowshoes) over rugged, mountainous, roadless terrain, often for long distances. Nor is a successful chase assured—lions often give hounds the slip.

The main reason for allowing the use of hounds for hunting lions is that it allows hunters to be selective. Colorado’s lion regulations are specifically designed to limit the harvest of adult female lions. “States that don’t allow the use of hounds for lion hunting have a higher harvest of females,” Vieira said.

That’s because it’s easy to quickly tell whether a deer or elk is male or female, but it’s difficult to know the sex of a cat without getting a close look. Hunters can positively verify the sex of a lion in a tree. They can then choose to let the lion go, or make a quick, clean kill.

“I have heard the ‘fish in a barrel’ complaint often, sometimes from other hunters,” Thomas, the former guide, said. “Hard to keep that in mind when I’m making a five-mile hike through treacherous terrain in sub-zero weather! I would guess that we treed fewer than half the cats we chased and shot far fewer than that. Even back when I was in top shape, I’ve never felt as exhausted as I did at the end of some of those hunts, which often did not end with a dead lion.”

Myth: Lion hunting orphans kittens

It’s important to note that female mountain lions with kittens are never allowed to be hunted. Lions are solitary animals, so if you see more than one set of lion tracks together, it’s most likely a female with young. Since lions are almost always hunted in the snow, it’s easy for lion hunters to avoid following multiple sets of cat tracks. Because of this selective method of hunting, female cats with kittens are left alone.

Colorado takes the education and selectivity of lion hunters very seriously, requiring anyone who wants to buy a mountain lion license to take and pass an online test to ensure they understand the rules. 

Myth: There is no management reason for hunting cats

Many people wonder why we have to manage wildlife at all—can’t we just let nature take its course? That’s an attractive sentiment, but Colorado now has 5.8 million people within its borders, and humans are heavily encroaching on wildlife habitat—building more and more houses and roads, running four-wheelers and snowmobiles, hiking, skiing, and biking in the backcountry. All of this has a huge impact on wildlife populations, altering the carrying capacity of the land. Like it or not, humans have to step in to help restore the balance. One of the ways this is done is through controlled hunting. Removing a carefully determined number of animals is a tool that helps maintain stable and healthy wildlife populations.

This is not about “getting rid” of lions or other predators. Thriving lion and bobcat populations are an important part of Colorado’s ecosystem. The state is scientifically managing the cats with a plan designed to maintain the populations at or above their current, sustainable levels. “Our strong lion populations also support the overall biodiversity of Colorado, interacting with deer and elk herds and providing ecological services as they have for thousands of years,” said Vieira.

Mountain lions prey on herbivores such as deer, elk, and bighorn sheep, and CPW’s scientific wildlife management approach helps keep the populations of all of these species in balance. Every wildlife management decision has complex ripple effects on many other species, which is one of the reasons these decisions should be made by trained biologists who spend years developing and implementing management plans that take all factors into account.

Myth: This proposition will stop lions from being killed

In 1990, the state of California passed Proposition 117, which banned mountain lion hunting in the Golden State. But the state still issues large numbers of depredation permits for lions that are killing livestock or threatening people, as Colorado would need to do as well. Paid trappers and sharpshooters (at taxpayer expense) kill an average of 98 lions every year on these permits, four times the number that were killed under such permits before the ban. In addition, the lack of a hunting season for the past thirty-odd years has not resulted in healthier lion populations in California. A recent survey pegged the state’s lion population at between 3,200 and 4,500, which is much lower than previously thought in a state that is a third larger than Colorado. 

Well-intentioned people who simply want to “stop the hunt” believe they are helping to protect wildlife. The truth is that trained biologists using scientific methods are the people best qualified to help wildlife populations thrive. Let’s let them do their jobs without interference from agenda-driven ballot measures. That’s how we, as informed voters, can show we truly care about wildlife.

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Meat, Mounts, and Management

The fact that I hung a rack of antlers on my wall does not mean I left the meat behind.

Many of the recent attempts to shut down various types of hunting through legislation or state ballot measures have been couched as bans on “trophy hunting.” It’s an effective tactic, because poll after poll shows that the general public mostly approves of hunting for meat or management purposes, but opposes “trophy hunting.” The problem with the term is that what most people think it means, versus what hunters mean by it, are worlds apart. 

If you ask the average non-hunter, they will likely tell you that “trophy hunting” means the head and horns were taken and hung on the hunter’s wall, and the meat was left to rot. However, true trophy hunting, as hunters understand it, means being extremely selective in holding out for the biggest and oldest animal possible (which is often also the wariest and most difficult to hunt), and when and if it is taken, it is utilized completely—all the meat is recovered and consumed, and the head, horns, and hide are preserved, retained, and prized.

Whether the “trophy” in question is a big-antlered bull elk, a brawny old male mountain lion, or an African buffalo, such an animal rarely makes the pursuit easy for the hunter. If the hunt is done right, the animal is killed cleanly, and is then consumed, appreciated, and honored—and likely spared the far more gruesome end it would inevitably meet if left to live out its life in the wild.

People who don’t hunt are often surprised to learn of the strict rules hunters have to abide by, including nearly universal “wanton waste” laws. These laws mandate that any hunter who kills a big-game animal is required by law to recover all of the edible meat. These days, our hunting world has regained the appreciation of the wide range of edible wild game meat that our forefathers had, and this requirement has expanded to cover animals that were not always hunted for meat, including bears and even mountain lions. (Everyone I know who has eaten mountain lion meat says it is excellent, with a flavor resembling that of pork.) 

It is true that there are cases in which hunters don’t or can’t personally consume all of the meat of their kills, such as when hunting in a foreign country from which importing meat is prohibited. In those places, the meat is not wasted, and the hunter’s role is that of providing high-quality meat to the local residents. Nothing goes to waste in places like Africa and Asia: every scrap of meat and offal from a hunter’s kill goes to feed a populace that desperately needs, and greatly appreciates, the protein. 

Craig Boddington, one of the most experienced and respected hunters in the field today, recently posted a thoughtful explanation of trophy hunting on his Facebook page: 

“Trophy hunting involves a selective harvest, with the highest financial contribution to the system for the fewest number of animals taken. The targeted specimens, often the oldest, largest, and most resource-needy, are used entirely—contributing to local economies and sustaining ecological balance. Whether akin to a child’s first trophy in T-ball or the prestigious Lombardi trophy, hunting trophies vary widely, commemorating the effort, pursuit, and success, while taxidermy preserves the meaning and value of the animal that the hunter harvested.”

I don’t consider myself a trophy hunter in the truest sense, because I rarely hold out for the largest possible specimen, although I have tremendous respect and admiration for those who do. I am almost always happy to take a good, mature animal. However, when I am successful in that endeavor, in addition to bringing home a freezer full of delicious, healthy, organic meat, I almost always keep and display some part of the animal—rack, skull, or taxidermy replica. 

You will call these trophies, and they are. But most people who see a photo of a hunter with a kill, or see an elk head on the wall, don’t realize that a beautiful hide or set of horns (of any size), a freezer full of meat (whether consumed personally or provided to those in need), and a memorable and fulfilling experience, are all equally important components of nearly every hunt. 

We should stop using terms like “trophy hunting,” “recreational hunting,” and even “meat hunting.” Each one assigns a narrow meaning to an endeavor that we engage in for a variety of reasons. We emerge from every outing, successful or not, with a greater understanding of the natural world and our place in it. In the end, we are simply hunting.

I realize that not everyone appreciates the natural artistry in a set of moose antlers, or the sheen of light on a beautiful bearskin draped over a chair. But for hunters, long after we’ve grilled the last moose steak and polished off the final container of bear stew, the heads on our walls, the racks over the fireplace, and the hides on our furniture remain, bringing us joy through both their inherent beauty and the memories they contain. 

I can’t say it any better than deer hunter and writer Paula Brandreth put it in her 1930 book, Trails of Enchantment:

“The deerskin rug on our study floor, the buck’s head over the fireplace, what are these after all but the keys which have unlocked enchanted doors and granted us not only health and vigor, but a fresh and fairer vision of existence.”

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The Bongo

All about hunting the most impressive antelope of the African forest.

Photo above: A good trail camera photo of Boddington’s 2018 Congo bongo, taken 19 days before the hunt.

When I was a kid, Warren Page’s story “Bongo in the Congo” made me want to hunt that mythical forest antelope. Page (1909-1977) was the long-time Gun Editor at Field & Steam. He is often described as “Jack O’Connor’s opposite number,” because O’Connor held the same title at Outdoor Life.

“Lefty” Page probably wouldn’t smile at that description. After leaving F&S, Page was Executive Director of the fledgling National Shooting Sports Foundation (NSSF). An avid benchrester, he was more technical than O’Connor, and contributed immensely to our knowledge of rifle accuracy. As a hunter, he didn’t take as many sheep as O’Connor, but had wide experience, and much more in Africa.

In 1957, Page was one of the first Americans to hunt bongo in the French colonies. His story created a big stir, essentially starting the Central African bongo hunting we have today. Despite the excellent article title, Page didn’t hunt in Congo. He hunted in the Congo Basin in Central African Republic (CAR). I used the same geographic subterfuge in a book chapter on my first bongo safari, also in CAR.

A seldom-seen denizen of thick, dark forest, the bongo is one of the tough ones. In 1997, Joe Bishop and I hunted for three weeks in southwestern CAR, forty-two hunting days between us. The only animal taken was my bongo. This was my second try. The year before, Sherwin Scott and I also did a three-week hunt, on the opposite side of CAR. Scotty got a nice bongo. I did not.

Professional hunter Christophe Morio and Boddington take a break in the Congo forest. On his left hip Boddington has the most essential piece of forest gear: Small gardening shears in a belt holster, invaluable for snipping through vines.

In ’96 and ’97, between Joe Bishop, Sherwin Scott, and me, we spent 84 hunting days for two bongos, six weeks of hard hunting for each. Or, if you prefer, on each 21-day safari we hit 50 percent. That was par for the course back then. Today, bongo hunting is much more successful. Like most animals, it depends somewhat on luck, and how and where one hunts them.

The bongo was first described by William Ogilby in 1837, genus Tragelaphus (“goat-deer” from Greek), species eurycerus (“broad-horn”). Initially called “broad-horned antelope,” the name bongo was first used in English in 1861, ascribed to both the Fanti and Kele native languages. The bongo is a big, blocky antelope with mature bulls weighing up to 600 pounds and more. It is one of the most colorful antelopes, with bright orange flanks, a dozen or so brilliant white vertical side-stripes, white nose chevron, black nose and darker chest, and black and white leg markings. Both sexes grow thick, smooth horns twisting in a gentle spiral. Potential length is to the upper 30 inches, with the horns of males usually thicker.

The bongo occupies a broad range across Equatorial Africa, in three distinct populations. The eastern or Kenya bongo, T, e. isaasci, is a larger subspecies, darker on neck and chest. Seriously threatened today, the Kenya bongo occurs in the high, thick bamboo forests of Mount Kenya, the Aberdares, and the Mau Forest. Not hunted since 1977, Kenya bongos were always the devil to hunt. PH Robin Hurt and James Mellon are among the last living hunters who took bongos in Kenya.

The western bongo (T. e. eurycerus) occurs from western Uganda across southwestern Sudan, southern CAR and Cameroon, the northern half of both Congos, and into Gabon. Then, there is a break across the Dahomey Gap, with bongos picking up again in Benin and Togo, ranging across southern Ghana, Ivory Coast, Liberia, and Sierra Leone into Guinea.

The bongo is so secretive that, although he was long rumored to occur in westernmost Uganda, only in 2017 was his presence confirmed by trail camera. Similarly, little is known about the current status of bongo in West Africa. It seems unlikely they still occur in Benin, Togo, or Ghana, but who knows? It’s a big forest. I saw old bongo horns in Ghana. Older local hunters I spoke to in Liberia had taken bongo, just one or two, in many years of constant hunting.

Boddington with PH Guav Johnson and their team of Pygmy hunters with a bongo from southern Cameroon, taken in 2004. This is not a giant, just a good, solid bongo bull. This bull has only 10 vertical side stripes; 12 to 14 stripes is more common.

It’s a different story with the Central African population. In the heart of the forest, across southern CAR and Cameroon, and northern Congos, the bongo is plentiful, the most common large antelope. That doesn’t make him easy to hunt, but he is not scarce.

When southern Sudan was open, the bongo was hunted in “finger forest,” strands of forest broken by savanna. There, it was possible to drive bongo from patches of forest into openings. Sudan closed in 1983. Since then, we have hunted bongo in big forests to the west. It’s difficult, mitigated only by the fact that there are lots of bongos in these big forests. There are three options: Pure tracking, tracking with dogs, and sitting over clearings or mineral licks.

Warren Page shot his bongo over a large clearing surrounded by forest. In ensuing years, the same clearing accounted for several more. Natural mineral licks are a treasured feature in the region. Locating bongo bulls at licks (using tracks and trail cameras) and sitting for them is common. Especially early in the season, March and April, when it’s dry, because forest animals move more when the rains start.

Sitting works, and is not as physical as tracking. The only thing: It takes more patience than I possess. On my first bongo hunt, we got no rain the last half. (The forest adage: “No rain, no bongo.”) We sat several nights over a mineral lick with bongo tracks. I hated it. Australian friend Greg Pennicott sat it out for several nights, then shot his bongo at first light on his last day with the camp 6.5×55–not my idea of a bongo rifle. There are irascible elephants in that forest. I used a .416 Rigby for my first bongo, a borrowed Krieghoff double .500 for my second, the camp .375 Ruger for my third and last.

Tracking is hard work. But it depends on your psyche; I much prefer walking to sitting for days on end. Although pleasant after a rain, it’s usually hot and humid in the forest. But you go slowly, walking in constant shade.

I haven’t found the African forest all that buggy, although biting ants are a constant threat. Long sleeves, long trousers, and light leather gloves are necessary. Perhaps the worst is constantly ducking under vines with thorns and stinging nettles. There’s a reason why the Pygmies are short. They can jog upright down forest trails. I’m average height, and must constantly duck. I can’t imagine what it must be like for tall people. The most essential piece of forest gear: Small gardening shears, carried in belt holster, so you can snip your way through.

I mentioned there were two options for tracking, with dogs and without. There is a weird “holier than thou” belief that tracking without dogs is “better” and more ethical. I bought into this at the start of my bongo-hunting odyssey. On my first bongo safari, I heard bongos get up and crash away. I saw one flash of a red form, gone. You can’t believe how thick and dark it is in the African forest. Mount Kenya was even thicker. Tracking without dogs gave bongo hunting its reputation for low success.

Although the forest is usually hot and humid, tracking bongo isn’t as physically demanding as often reported. Tracking is slow and steady, always in shade. When dogs are used, they are leashed until a track is very fresh. Then things get crazy.

If it was ethically “better,” I’m all for it. The problem with pure tracking: You follow a big track and if you’re lucky you eventually shoot at a spot of red. Almost never will you see the horns. My first bongo, ’97, we followed a big track and I shot a patch of red. It happened to be an awesome bull, but there was no way I could know that for sure.

Bongo hunting became routinely successful when forest PHs started working with Pygmy hunters and their amazing dogs. Success is not assured, but it is far better than in days gone by. Find a big track, keep dogs leashed until the track is very fresh. There are no wild canines in the forest, so the dogs are an unfamiliar threat. It’s not a sure thing; I’ve seen bongo bulls walk away from the dogs and evaporate into the forest. Typically aggressive, like bushbucks, they will often hold for a bit and fight. Then it’s a mad scramble to get there.

Usually you see the horns. My second bongo was taken in southern Cameroon, in 2004. As usual, we found fresh bull tracks after a rain. An hour on the track, then the scramble. Not a giant bull: 27 inches, the Rowland Ward minimum. Thus, by definition, it was too good to pass. I saw the horns, knew what I was doing. No disappointment, no bonus.

My third and last bongo was in the Congo in 2018. There are lots of bongos in the Congo forest, but I wasn’t there to hunt them. I wanted a dwarf forest buffalo, generally less common and more difficult. One morning, after a rain, we couldn’t find buffalo tracks to follow. Instead, we found fresh and huge bongo tracks at a salt lick where a giant bull had been captured on trail camera. We followed through still-wet forest for an hour, found hot dung, and loosed the dogs. They jumped the bull almost immediately, then there were several desperate minutes of sprinting and slipping in mud.

The fight was in thick stuff beyond a five-yard clearing. I saw the white stripes first, then the wide, heavy horns. For sure, it was the bull on the trail camera. It was a great bongo, big in both body and horn, and without question, my best African animal.

Boddington’s best (and last) bongo was taken in Congo Republic in 2018. He wasn’t specifically hunting bongo until they saw the tracks. Huge in both body and horn, this bull was taken with a .375 Ruger.

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Marble Mines and Mountain Zebras

In pursuit of a striped stallion in the rocky highlands of the Namib Desert.

At the farthest edge of the Namib Desert is a land that seems caught in a different time. Game roams free. Water is scarce. In this forsaken place, some of the first Bushmen, Ovambo, Kavango, Wambu, and Herero peoples left their footprints in the rocky sand. Little remains save remnants of Stone Age tools and cliff paintings, yet descendants of those tribespeople today stand watch over the same terrain that now holds the riches of gold below ground and rare marble above, jutting like tumbled dice from towering hills. 

This land is hardly untouched; the evidence of human encroachment is unmistakable. Massive blocks of white, gray, and blue marble line the first few kilometers of dirt track leading into one of Namibia’s best-kept secrets. But past the antiquated mining machinery, wickedly dangerous stone cutters, and large trucks hauling stunning cubes of future countertops and towering columns destined for the United States and China, lies another world rich in adventure and challenge. Those who make a living here still find greater value in a hindquarter of game meat than in a ton of pure marble. We were able to gain access to pursue the elusive Equus zebra hartmannae in its wild home, so long as we’d provide our hosts with an animal for meat. 

The desert sun lights up huge chunks of marble from the mining operations that surrounded the hunting area.

In what seems the center of another world and perhaps another century, far beyond the active mines, Hartmann mountain zebra scale the rocky mountain faces with a grace and ease I can only admire as I struggle with my every step to climb the loose, rocky kopjes. Shards of shale slip out underfoot and tumble down the slope. They tell me these are not truly “mountains,” but I’d respectfully disagree. Though we were out long before dawn, we’d yet to spot the mountain-named zebras in the lowlands where they’re thought to spend the earliest morning hours before heading up toward cloudless heavens. 

Outfitter Stephen Bann climbs surprising well for a hulking man with the build of a former rugby player. From the summit, he said, we could glass for game. With a lever-action Henry slung over my shoulder, a bino chest rig, and a backpack, finding my balance took more effort than scanning for game. The zebras were not our only pursuit–gemsbok and kudu were also on the list–but it was the stark black and white animal that drew me here. Once at a comfortable height to survey the surrounding valleys and farther crests, Bann and I settled in. 

Among many species of Equidae, the Hartmann mountain zebra shows several notable characteristics. In addition to thin, tight contrasting stripes, the belly is free from such pattern, being mostly white with striping ending a good three inches above the abdomen. Unlike other zebras, the Hartmann’s legs are striped right down to their hooves. In addition, and more difficult to notice at quick glance, is a small dewlap on the neck. 

These agile climbers not only exist but thrive in rugged and arid conditions. Water here is scant and unseen, piped in for many kilometers to the mines, feeding the machines cutting marble. Where the zebras find drinking water, much less the people, I still can’t say. 

Hartmann mountain zebras travel in much smaller groups than the far more common Burchell zebras. We’d spotted a zeal of three and another of five several days prior, but catching up to them again proved an impossibility. My goal of harvesting one of these wily creatures with a .45-70 Government-chambered lever action was making this venture even more difficult, and while I’m sure my more limited range irked Bann and the diligent trackers, they said nothing. Since I was shooting a 300-grain hunk of lead with arc-like ballistics, we’d have to get close, inside of 200 yards, ideally. Bann wanted to leave nothing to chance and shouldered his own .300 WSM in case I’d need to stretch my ballistic legs. 

We’d left Namibian outfitter Brink Grobler of big leopard fame along with fellow hunter Jerry Hnetynka with the Land Cruiser, and they’d gone off in search of cat spoor for their own hunt. Our quick-to-smile tracker, Tomas, summited along with us, though at this particular moment, he was far ahead, about to crest another mountain to the north. He moved with the ease of those who seem built for this land while the rest of us merely come to break ourselves against it.  Bann and I glassed low and high, scanning what seemed miles of expansive valleys, stony outcroppings, and far off, as in a mirage, the blazing red of open dunes. One would think–as I mistakenly did–that spotting zebras, their colors in stark contrast to literally everything else here, would be a snap. After all, black-and-white doesn’t seem a practical camouflage.  

“Take a break for a moment,” Bann said as I lowered my binocular. He was gazing into the distance and smiling. “Just look around. Isn’t this place beautiful?”

He was right. I had been so focused on looking for a zebra–and not tumbling down the slope–that I’d nearly lost sight of the prize. One could sit here for hours, days even, and never cease marveling at the lonesome beauty of this wild place, thinking how few over the centuries had marveled at this same view. 

Our moment of solitude was broken by the faint whistle and waving arms of Tomas. Bann was on his feet and moving down the slippery grade before I could even shoulder my pack. “Come quickly! He’s seen a stallion.” 

Down we went, far faster than seemed prudent. I was certain if I survived the way down, as we begin the subsequent climb to where Tomas waited in a crouch behind boulders, I’d be breathing too heavily to place a quick and accurate shot. As we worked closer, Bann motioned to stay low. The two men whispered in hurried Afrikaans and I understood enough between broken words and body language to know it was time. 

“A group with a shooter stallion is over the ledge here,” Bann said, gesturing up, “but they’re working higher. Drop your pack and be ready.” 

We crawled ahead of Tomas now, slipping alongside one outcropping and hiding behind another, feeling gravel grind underfoot and stepping lightly to silence it. “There!” Bann hissed. 

I followed his stare, yet didn’t immediately see anything. “The stallion is in the rear. Get on him,” he ordered, motioning for me to use the rock in front of us as a shooting rest. 

I had taken my jacket off and balled it up as a makeshift sandbag and had my rifle ready, but I’d yet to lock onto my quarry. How could I not see an entire group of black and white animals? Bann guided my gaze higher and there I caught a hint of movement, hardly more than 100 yards away but angling upward. I couldn’t believe how naturally they became part of the mountain. 

“Track them in the scope,” Bann whispered, “and wait for them to stop. Take the biggest one.”  Just when I was afraid I’d never pick them up before they crested the next ridge, my optic came alive. Four zebras were scaling the slope with the ease of mountain goats, not hurriedly, but not stopping either, partially obscured from time to time by dry brush or jutting shards. 

The distance was widening as they continued their graceful ascent, but I didn’t dare avert my eye from the riflescope to verify range. “One-twenty-five,” Bann whispered, as if reading my mind. I knew that was meters, and not yards, as I was accustomed. Only a few steps farther, as if hearing his cue, the lead mare paused and looked, not at us, but upward, in the direction they were traveling. The others followed suit and my cross hairs dropped back, finding the biggest body bringing up the rear. The size comparison wasn’t even close. The stallion had been hanging back. 

“Now,” said Bann. “If you’re on him, shoot!” The hammer on my Henry All Weather was already back and the trigger broke just as he finished saying the word. The recoil of that 150-year-old chambering took me off the target, and by the time I levered in another round and settled back onto my jacket for a follow-up shot, all I saw was the flash of a striped rear going over the crest and out of sight. My heart was about to drop, fearing I’d botched the shot of which I’d felt so certain just a second ago, but then Bann was pounding me on the back and Tomas–running to us now–let out a hoot. 

“Did you see, Memsa?!” he exclaimed as he spun around and pounded one hand down against the other, grinning ear to ear. Though I’d lost sight of the stallion in the outcroppings above and ahead, both men reassured me he was there. 

As Tomas set off with his small knife and a machete he’d been carrying precariously tucked in the back of his belt, Bann and I gathered our gear, though I was too giddy to focus. Many months of dreaming had come to fruition in this magical place. 

Alberts with her Hartmann mountain zebra stallion. These animals thrive in rugged, arid highlands.

Bann attempted to radio the truck, but didn’t get an answer, so he could only hope they’d heard the shot and would be heading our way sooner than later. And he was correct; just as we had descended, slid, and otherwise not so gracefully made it down one incline and were about to start up the next, we could make out the jostling shape of the Cruiser picking its way around jagged hazards in the distant valley. 

“Have you got one, then?” Brink questioned before the wheels had even stopped. I was sure my grin told the tale, but Bann indicated the direction to Brink while speaking quickly in Afrikaans. Plans were in the works, no doubt, when Jerry hopped down from the back. “Well, let’s go see what you got!” he said, throwing his arm around my shoulders. 

Though the incline didn’t appear that steep from below, my breathing was labored before the muscular creature came into view, and I wondering just how we’d get every ounce of this prized meat back down. When we four reached the tracker, Tomas had already cleared an area for photos, dusting away blood, but he couldn’t budge the animal and sat resting on his haunches. 

“Ooh, he’s beeeg,’” he proclaimed as I knelt to rest my hand on the stallion’s thick neck. As I offered a silent prayer of thanksgiving, I couldn’t help but swallow back tears of joy, at once overwhelmed with the surroundings, the people, the history, and our fine little hunting party. We’d overcome a number of struggles and failures in the past few days, making success that much sweeter. 

It took all of us to drag the big male a few yards into the clearing. As Jerry and I worked at photos, Brink and Bann were already heading back down to the Cruiser. “He’ll drive back to the nearest miner’s camp,” the outfitter hollered over his shoulder, meaning one of the makeshift tent-and-tarpaulin hovels we’d passed hours earlier. “He’ll fetch some Wambu. They’re strong workers and will come quickly when they know there’s meat.”

Jerry and I did our best to help with skinning and quartering, though I’m still unsure whether we helped or hindered the wisp of a man who was accustomed to working alone, swiftly and without wasted movement. If he was annoyed with our brand of “help,” he didn’t show it and continued about his rhythmic skinning, shifting, and rolling of the carcass, removing the back skin, the hind quarters, carefully saving certain entrails and setting them gently atop the hide. I’d get to keep the cape and skull, but the remainder of the animal would go to the miners. I was already feeling like a million bucks–or roughly 19 million Namibian dollars in this case, a drop in the proverbial bucket compared to the value of the sawn marble, undrilled gold, and desert diamonds that surrounded us. 

Before the sun set on this majestic day of perspiration and blisters, I was blessed to take a second, slightly smaller stallion as we descended the mountain. The bakkie was loaded with quarters, capes, and entrails. With barely a place for us to stand atop the Cruiser’s bloodied bed, two Wambu, a Bushman, and Tomas riding on the bumper, all was right with the world.  These men had helped pack out all the protein and delicacies two mountain zebras could offer, leaving nothing but the animals’ stomach contents behind. For their assistance, they were given first choice of the cuts they wanted, each opting in turn for pieces of the offal. 

Mountain zebra steaks are highly sought-after table fare in Namibia.

I was beyond pleased to have fulfilled my hunting goal, but in those golden moments surrounded by the marble mountains, that ambition felt secondary to other, simpler gratifications.  Pleased with the wealth of meat that would supply the camps. Pleased with the palpable excitement of the native workers, not understanding a word of their local dialects but not needing to, either. Pleased that I would soon taste the delights of fresh mountain zebra loin prepared by a native chef over an open flame that night at camp. Bann had explained earlier that mountain zebras, their fat pure white and in stark contrast to that of the more yellow Burchell, was highly prized table fare. 

Hot and dusty, resting around a fire that evening, we savored rare-cooked steaks and a few swallows of African brandy, our lives entwined with these treasure-filled wilds, rich with the realization that success comes not alone, but rather, with an unlikely team working in unison. The finest blessings cannot be measured by money or marble, but by memories and meat, time and place, sweat and smiles. 

Unorthodox Gear for Mountain Zebras

Taking a lever-action rifle on an African safari is unconventional to begin with, but choosing Henry’s All Weather Picatinny Rail Side Gate rifle in the .45-70 Government chambering with flying tank ballistics seems downright nonsensical on paper, especially for a “mountain” hunt. However, my love for the round means finding workarounds for its shortcomings, and outfitter Stephen Bann of SB Hunting Safaris (sbhuntingsafaris.com) was up for the patience-testing challenge of stalking mountain zebras with such a setup. 

I topped my rig with Leupold’s VX-3HD optic in 2.5-8×36. That magnification proved more than ample, while the smaller objective diameter allowed me to mount the optic low and tight for proper eye alignment, which can be tricky on lever guns. 

The star of the optical show, though, is Leupold’s CDS-ZL system, for which the company builds a complimentary caliber-matched turret, in this case customized for my chosen Federal Premium Hammer Down 300-grain load. With a mountain zebra standing at 225 yards, all I needed to do is spin the turret to 2.25 and send it. 

Not only does such a system take the guesswork out of holdovers, but also makes fast-falling rounds like the .45-70 a friendlier player on longer shots. Of course, there’s no replacement for getting close and enjoying the thrill of the hunt, but the right gear and proper preparation builds confidence for any eventuality. By safari’s end, my smooth-cycling lever gun proved itself on everything from Cape buffalo to springbok and ostrich, but in many ways, those wily mountain zebras posed the greatest ballistic challenge.

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Pure Class

Fausti’s perfectly balanced Class SLX 20-gauge is the ideal choice for everything from doves to pheasants.

Big-game hunting pulls us toward the wild, the unknown, the hoped for, the adventure. But it’s limited: short seasons, single tags… if you can draw a tag at all. And then bang. One and done. And that’s why I love bird hunting, and 20-gauge shotguns. 

Ruffed grouse and woodcock. Sharptails and prairie chickens. Pheasants and quail. Blue grouse, ptarmigan, chukar . . . nearly twenty species of upland game birds in North American alone lure us into wild country from cactus deserts to hardwood forests, from coastal swamps to Arctic mountains, where we can hunt daily and shoot often over a span of months, not days. Bag limits for some species are as high as fifteen per day. And for this, you need a balanced, fitted, smooth-handling, and sweet-swinging shotgun like the Fausti Class SLX 20-gauge. 

The Class SLX is a slim, beautifully balanced over/under shotgun with lovely lines to match the glory of autumn. From its nicely figured, oil-polished walnut stock to its swirling case-colored receiver inlaid with evocative gold pheasants and grouse, this 6.2-pound smoothbore virtually demands to be taken afield. And when it is, the user invariably demands another round. Day after day, field after field, hike after hike, shot after shot, the intoxicating mix of gun and birds fills the autumn days with discovery and joy. 

Such is the magic of upland hunting. But there is a prosaic side, a mechanical utility that contributes to the simple application of a gun like this one. The heart of this mechanism is a strong boxlock action augmented by false sideplates, a canvas for the gun’s swirling case-colored finish and gold inlaid pheasants and grouse. This same case-colored finish wraps the rest of the action, including the sculpted breech, tang lever, and action bar, where yet another gold grouse takes wing. 

The barrel selector for the single trigger is in the tang safety.

Light, fine scroll engraving adds texture for a rich overall look. The textured effect is slightly marred, to my eye, by a gloss-blued trigger bow. I suspect this was done to showcase Fausti’s newly adopted logo inlaid on it on gold, a logo consisting of mirrored images of a stylized F that can also be seen as stag antlers. 

In its defense, the shiny blued trigger bow is echoed in the deeply blued, 28-inch barrels with 3-inch chambers and capped with flush fit choke tubes, five to the set. A matte stippled, raised rib guides the shooter’s eye subconsciously to the targets. All of this metal is fitted to a AA walnut stock highlighted with 18-line checkering on the rounded pistol grip panels and wrapping around what Fausti calls a splinter fore-end. 

Light, fine scroll engraving adds texture for a rich overall look. The Fausti logo is showcased on a gloss-blued trigger bow.

The muscle in this machine is Fausti’s Four Locks locking system machined from a solid bar of steel. In addition to the usual tapered under-lug lock up, which compensates for wear over time, there are secondary lugs protruding from each lower side of the action walls. These engage matching recesses in the barrels’ monoblock. This setup should handily minimize torque working to tear the breech from the face with each shot. 

The fore-end iron is attached to the barrels via the familiar, pull-down Deeley and Edge lever. It and its frame are lightly engraved. Pushing the tang lever and hinging the barrels down activates the selective ejectors and cocks any fired barrel. The barrel selector for the single trigger is in the tang safety. Length of pull is 14.5 inches, ending in a thin, black, stippled, rubber butt pad with a bit of flex in its center, more than sufficient to soften the slight blow of a 20-gauge.  

More noticeable than all these details is the general look and feel of this gun. It’s slim, trim, light, and lively thanks in no small part to a properly scaled action and sensibly, even artistically sculpted stock lines. In the uplands, this 20-gauge carries easily, mounts quickly, and paints a bird’s flight path before the shooter consciously considers it. Flush, swing, bang, done—it happens instinctively, hardly without realizing 6.2 pounds and 45 inches of walnut and steel were even part of the operation. That, in the final analysis, describes the perfect upland shotgun. 

In the field, the Fausti 20-gauge carries easily, mounts quickly, and paints a bird’s flight path before the shooter consciously considers it.

So, once the elk is wrapped and frozen, the deer hung and aging, I can whistle up the setter and indulge day after golden autumn day walking the uplands where coveys and singles await to astonish and thrill me. And I’ll carry a Fausti wand that somehow reaches out to snare them smoothly and elegantly, every time.

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Helping People, Helping Wildlife

The Rowland Ward Foundation is helping to ensure people who live in proximity to wildlife also benefit from it.

Photo above by Mike Arnold: Among the many projects supported by hunters through the Rowland Ward Foundation is this rural hospital in Cameroon.

Rowland Ward is a very old-line name in the hunting world. James Rowland Ward, born in 1848 in London, followed in his father’s footsteps in the taxidermy business. He owned and operated a taxidermy shop known as “The Jungle” that became an almost mandatory stop for Victorian-era hunters traveling through London on their way to Africa or India. But it was his record book, Rowland Ward’s Records of Big Game, which he started publishing in the 1890s as a marketing tool for his taxidermy business, that made him a household name. (Or at least a very famous hunting-camp name.)

Fast-forward about 130 years. Not only is the Rowland Ward record book still being published–it’s currently in its Thirtieth Edition, the oldest record book in existence–but also, Rowland Ward itself has become the Rowland Ward Foundation, a 501(c)(3) nonprofit organization. Its mission is to support sustainable, fair-chase hunting that benefits local, indigenous people and the conservation of wildlife and its habitat worldwide.

One of the things that makes me proud to be a hunter is the important conservation work that hunters do through the many excellent wildlife organizations founded and funded by sportsmen. Rather than concentrate on the conservation of a particular species, as many of these organizations do, the Rowland Ward Foundation takes a different tack. It recognizes the crucial role of local communities in conserving wildlife habitat, especially in developing countries.

It may seem odd at first for a conservation organization to focus on people instead of animals. But anyone who has hunted in places like Africa and Asia understands that wildlife and habitat can only thrive in such places if local communities receive tangible benefits from the wildlife they live with.

Many of the people who live near the hunting areas we love to visit may own little more than a small hut and a few head of livestock. Well-run hunting operations in these areas, supported by organizations like the Rowland Ward Foundation, provide steady employment as well as nutrition, education, health care, and other long-term benefits to the local communities. When the local people see that they are better off protecting, rather than poaching, their wildlife, their communities in turn become active and effective conservation partners with the hunters who support their efforts.

Only by ensuring these locals get their share of benefits from the wildlife and wilderness they live with year-round, and by engaging them as equal partners, can we protect the animals and natural habitat we all love. Learn more about the many projects supported by the Rowland Ward Foundation, and how you can help, at rowlandward.org.

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